It's all good. I know your heart is in the right place.
The clip is pictured on an earlier post on the thread.
Most parts are Mopar Specific. Most parts can be purchased through (MoparDave) at RosevilleMoparts.com.
I don't know the pitch and thread count on the water pump.- it's a 440, that's all I know.
The wheel studs- we only have a 1&1/4" stud, which is not nearly enough. I'd say 1&3/4 to 2" to be safe. Again, I'm not familiar with pitch and thread count. It's all Mopar specific.
Accelerator linkage- I think we could get that thru summit. Edelbrock 600cfm 4bb carb.
The u- joint should be pretty standard. I only dealt with getting one once, so someone else will have to chime in.
The trans dipstick and tube can be purchased as a set- again we could buy a specific one thru Roseville. All 727s are essentially the same for car applications. Don't know about trucks tho.
I'm picking up the hoses.
No worries Dan. Anything I can do to help.
Blown motor said his trans guy is going to donate a dipstick and tube. So unless I hear that that's a no-go, I'll let it go.
I'll look back at the thread and see what that steering clip is.
I spoke with a guy at a Chrysler dealer close to me that is, supposedly, an old 440 guru and he told me that the water pump bolts are 3/8" x 18.
Water pump bolts are 3/8 coarse but length will vary with housing thickness & accessories to bolt on with the water pump
Wheel studs are 1/2" fine thread but the knurl diameter is important , front or rear ? , why are they needed , I though it had regular ralley wheels on it ?
Some one has to measure the drive shaft & or pinion yolk sizes to see if they are the small or large size , there is also a conversion joint if the sizes are different between the 2
I've been doing some searching on the interwebz and it seems that the water inlet/outlet bolts are just that, bolts. Not bolts with a stud sticking out and the 4 water pump bolts are really short. Although, depending on what pulley setup is going to go on it, it may be better to get low profile allen head type bolts as opposed to your regular 6 point bolts (just for the 4 water pump mounting bolts).
I'll look for my vernier caliper and measure the yoke and driveshaft to get the u-joint size down.
Just thinking.... a torque strap might be a good idea too. That engine is going to be a torque monster!
Neil, longer studs are needed as the rims are hitting the springs. We had to temporarily put washers behind the rims. It has rally rims but they look to be custom/wider with 295 rims ? It was said it's a B-Body rear end and has the offset shackles and hangers. From what I remember your going to need about a 3/8" spacer on the passenger side and 1/4" on the drivers?
Driveshaft safety loop may not be a bad idea either.
Would you happen to know what the model numbers of the axle that is supposed to be in there and what's actually in there are? I'd rather find a solution that doesn't incorporate wheel spacers and extended studs. Wheel spacers are a band-aid solution, at best, in my opinion. It changes the load on the axle bearings and can cause issues.
As for 295 rims, did you mean tires? i.e 295/50/15? (Not trying to be rude or anything, I'm just a stickler for details)
Hahahaha.. Thanks Dodj. You are correct. I forgot. He has a box with an old carb in it that looked like an Edelbrock package.
When I read that it was 600 CFM this was the look on my face ---->