Chryco's Tech Shop > The Body Shop sponsored by AUTO METAL DIRECT

Advice with shooting metallics.

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IMNCARN82:
I sprayed the Duster Plum crazy. Got some faint lines in it.  It's hard to paint the whole car and get it perfect. Can some of you pros give me some advice?   My gun set up might not have been right. Maybe too much product. And not enough overlap. Now I'll go 3/4 so that could have been it. Also... I start on the roof to the B pillar then quick to the other side. Then low and work my way up.  What's a good sequence for painting a whole car like this?  When the compressor kicks on should I wait till it's done?   We got a nice big Ingersoll Rand and a big air dryer. Sata guns.   was spraying with a bit more psi too.     It's not that bad but not good enough.  So I'm wondering what I can do better.     Gonna prep the old charger hood to do just prior to the re-spray to get it right.     Thanks.   I need sum help. R/T

72cudamaan:
What order you paint in is more personal preference. I like to keep a wet edge. Also,
 if you spray your second coat at 90 degrees to the first you won't have lines. Maybe a little closer overlap
as well.

torredcuda:
Single stage or base clear?

IMNCARN82:
Its base/clear.    How can you keep a wet edge ? You start on the roof ?  I can't see how that's really possible when spraying a whole car. 

YellowFin:
I always lay down a coat, let it flash, then step back 1 foot and lay down a mist coat. That usually helps the flake stand up correctly. Sometimes you get "paint lines" in metallics even with great overlap. This comes from spraying too heavy or close to the body. What this does is puddles the metallic flakes and they all lay flat. Thus from certain angles there is no shimmer because all the flakes faces are pointing in the same direction. A mist coat partially flashes in mid air so that when the flakes hit the surface, they stand up and vary in reflection angles. Hope this helps.

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