Evicting the mouse.

[06Daytona]

Dayum that car sounds nice The guy who built the engine came over and helped me get it tuned and it sounds awesome. I still have to get the exhaust hooked up but I'm itching to take it out for an open header drive

[06Daytona]

I cut the exhaust and resized it today. I could only weld the top half of the cut, but it's loads quieter now. Now when I fire it up, the first turn of the key it backfires through the Eddy 800 carb. Second turn of the key and it fires right up but is idling really high(no tach so I don't know exactly how high) I can't back off the idle screw anymore and my A/F mixture is only 1 1/2 turns out. I have a feeling my timing is out, but since I don't have any RB experience I'm a little worried about screwing something up. Once I get the car idling nice I'm going to take it over to a local muffler shop and weld the rest of the exhaust while it's up on the hoist. I'm also going to adjust my torsion bars a little and check all the bottom bolts.

When I took the car out on the street to turn it around it chirped the tires when I was going from R to 1. When it hit D it chirped and when I got it to 1st and started moving it felt really sluggish.

[Chryco Psycho]

you must have a vacuum leak , or the gasket under the carb is keeping the throttle open , I doubt it is a timing issue , if it runs well the timing has to be close & should never need to be adjusted to control idle speed .

[06Daytona]

The reason I was thinking timing was because of the backfire when I first try to start it. I just took a look to see if I could find an obvious leak and noticed that the large vacuum port on the front of the carb had blown off its cap again. I have my vacuum advance plugged into the passenger side front so I might have it on the wrong port there. I can't remember which one is which on an Eddy and I never remember to write it down when I figure it out.

[Chryco Psycho]

me too so if it has vacuum at idle it is the wrong port , it will backfire if it is lean , no choke

[06Daytona]

I fired the car up this morning and I got the usual carb backfire and then it started the next try. I started to play with the idle mixture and ended up turning them both all the way in without any RPM change and the car kept running fine. The idle speed screw is backed off all the way and I just can't get the idle to drop. I have the vacuum advance off and the vacuum port on the carb plugged and I figured out which port is which on the front. I've checked to make sure that the gasket isn't holding the throttle open and it doesn't seem to be, but I think I'll pull the carb and double check. The carb is new and I was working fine when we did the breakin on the stand. The only thing that's changed since then is the timing got moved a little and hasn't been set properly I don't think.

[06Daytona]

I think I may have found the problem. I had to add a spacer/adapter from square bore to spread bore. When I checked the gaskets, the top gasket was pretty narrow and the black from the backfires was going right up to the edge, maybe 1/64th of an inch from the edge. I swapped the top and bottom gaskets since the other gasket was wider so I'll see how that goes.

[Chryco Psycho]

Makes sense to me , it has to be something like that causing the problem ,, can you see much light past the throttle blades ?  You should just see a narrow strip of light around the throttle pates if it is closing all the way

[06Daytona]

That's about what I can see. It was the same gap all the way around the throttle plates. Just re-juicing the battery right now so I can check it

[06Daytona]

Got it figured. The creative Disney authorized throttle cable linkage was hitting the idle adjustment screw and not letting it travel all the way. A little more Disney authorized creativity and it's all good. The timing is out a little because I still have a backfire when I let of the throttle, but it seems to be good to go now.

[Chryco Psycho]

the backfire is more likely to be from the unwelded pipes letting air in

[06Daytona]

Got my exhaust welded up but still have a leak at #4 because of a broken stud. It broke after the engine was in so it's going to be a pain to fix. I had a friend come over today to tune it and I'm really impressed.
He had me take the car in front of the house and punch it. I left twin 10 foot black marks on the road and went back to the driveway. Popped the hood and he switched the vacuum line to the other port and the car ran better. Rev it and the backfire is almost gone.
He adjusted the AF and idle, smelled the exhaust and tweaked the AF a little more.
Next he played with the timing, then back to AF and idle.
Next he had me rev it up to 2000-2500 and repeated timing, and AF. Back to idle and he tweaked it a little more.
Then he had me gun it in front of the house again. This time, 30 feet of twin black marks in a nice S shape.
He checked everything over again and he was done.
No more backfire, and once I get the header leak fixed and the trans adjusted on Tuesday it's going to be one bada$$ car.

[PlumCraZRT]

Popped the hood and he switched the vacuum line to the other port and the car ran better.

Are you talking about the distributor advance line?

Most people run with this disconnected, regardless it should be unplugged (with the carbs vacuum line capped-off) while adjusting the timing

[06Daytona]

It was disconnected while he was timing it.

[Chryco Psycho]

so why reconnect it , it was tuned with it off leave it off