Now on to find the resistance...
Looking at the new engine harness at the bulkhead connector,engine side, you will see a blue wire on pin 23.
We need to connect the positive volt meter lead to the positive battery terminal and the negative lead back probe the blue wire connector at pin 23. Load the electrical system as before and write down this reading as G.
This test will check the integrity of the engine wire harness ignition power feed circuit. There's a substantial load on this blue wire.
Ok, so I test fitted my back probing at 23 before cranking up , just to be safe.....had that figured out....then started her up , swicthed stuff on etc....and checked the voltage at the battery.....it had dropped to 15.4 or so.
So I figured that my messing with pin 23 was what helped there.....droped .4 volts from my usual 15.8.
Did the test you prescribed, got .7-.8....so I went ahead an pulled tha twire from the harness plug, resoldered the connection, cleaned as best I could (what the hell do you use to clean the bulkhead connections?), greased it up and stuck it all together again...took a while since I had to fight a big rain storm.,..LOL
Anyways, after reassembly I measured again....had a reading still of .8. Now, if I turned everything off except the dome light (since I forgot it), I got a reading of .6.
Also, before messing with soldering the wire at 23, I also checked for voltage drop between wire 23e and the left plugs on the ballast.....got .2 on the top and .5 on the bottom......if that helps at all. LOL
After all this was done, I am still reading at 15.2-15.4 volts at the battery ---that does make my summit gauge read a lot better rather than pegged....it reads at 15-15.5,
SO SOMEHOW I picked up .4 volts.....maybe it was the wire at pin 23 or maybe not.....