ShelbyDogg's 71 Challenger Pace Car (clone)

Author Topic: ShelbyDogg's 71 Challenger Pace Car (clone)  (Read 98055 times)

Offline ShelbyDogg

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Re: ShelbyDogg's Pace Car (wannabe)
« Reply #120 on: March 20, 2009 - 04:07:06 PM »
Sorry if this is slow to load. I have too many pics on each page.

Yesterday, I wanted to tackle this:



So I made a piece out of heavy paper in the shapes that I needed:




I have a bunch of 14 gauge plates that I cut these out of. Why use thinner 16 to 22 gauge, if you can use 14? Added strength!


Cut off the old and started tacking the new, then welding all around:









Started to fit the outer WheelHouse, since it goes on under the section that closes over the hole. Lots of trimming needed for a convertible since it only uses the outside edge in front.


I used the old rusty part to trim my new part. Guess what? The CONVERTIBLES USE A SMALLER ONE. I had to cut mine in the center to shorten it to fit.


I don’t know if the full quarters use thicker metal but my “skin” measures .033” and my old quarter thickness was .045”

More to come…..
Rob

3 E-bodies, Megasquirt-1v3.0, Edelbrock Pro-Flo-1, Holley C950, FAST EZ-EFI; say no to carbs...yes to throttle bodies

My Pace Car restoration thread:
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=44869.0





Offline ShelbyDogg

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Re: ShelbyDogg's Pace Car (wannabe)
« Reply #121 on: March 21, 2009 - 12:34:54 AM »
Clamped on the quarter skin, to then match the inner fender to it. That way the quarter doesn't deform getting tweaked to match it. The only way to get it all to fit is put it together before doing any welding.


I had to do more trimming and hammering to make it fit. I screwed it in to hold it. The screws will all be replaced with spot welds later. You can see the cut that I had to make to shorten it. This will be cut then butt welded later also.



I clamped on the trunk extension before any welding to make sure everything fits.  Thank god for vice grips. 7 in this pic alone and 3 not seen on top.


sorry for the big pics.....
Rob

3 E-bodies, Megasquirt-1v3.0, Edelbrock Pro-Flo-1, Holley C950, FAST EZ-EFI; say no to carbs...yes to throttle bodies

My Pace Car restoration thread:
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=44869.0


Offline ShelbyDogg

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Re: ShelbyDogg's Pace Car (wannabe)
« Reply #122 on: April 21, 2009 - 11:57:53 AM »
Didn't take any close-ups, Didn't want to be called a hack, but I sandblasted this area, welded in new thicker metal to make this stronger than stock, then etch primed and POR-15ed and Sprayed truck bed liner spray in this area. This area gets very wet and needs to be completely sealed to survive.  I also rebuilt-hacked the rear corner of the tail panel and welded everything you see here. I needed a rear jack mount and had to make one. I'm ready to put on my quarter skin.







 
I put in my b-body rear and offset springs to trial fit my 15x10s and 295/50s, before I put on my quarter and they fit very well and look good.
Rob

3 E-bodies, Megasquirt-1v3.0, Edelbrock Pro-Flo-1, Holley C950, FAST EZ-EFI; say no to carbs...yes to throttle bodies

My Pace Car restoration thread:
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=44869.0


Offline ShelbyDogg

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Re: ShelbyDogg's Pace Car (wannabe)
« Reply #123 on: May 15, 2009 - 12:38:49 PM »
If I had money, I would install 2 new quarters, trunk gutters and a tail panel, so I’m back to hacking………

Trying to fix the rear gutters before I put on my quarter skins.  This was patched with brass, sometime in it’s past. This is what I’m starting with:


Got this from a friend for $20. It is the wrong year but has 2 good gutter ends on it.


 

Had to trim both parts till they fit together where I wanted it. It took days to get it close enough to butt clamp together

 

Cut off the tail panel, trimmed a bit more, then started laying down the tack welds.






All tacked, then welded up, now time to grind.


Ground down, ready for etch primer and bondo.



Next up; Left quarter skin



« Last Edit: May 29, 2009 - 12:31:36 AM by ShelbyDogg »
Rob

3 E-bodies, Megasquirt-1v3.0, Edelbrock Pro-Flo-1, Holley C950, FAST EZ-EFI; say no to carbs...yes to throttle bodies

My Pace Car restoration thread:
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=44869.0


Offline ShelbyDogg

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Re: ShelbyDogg's Pace Car (wannabe)
« Reply #124 on: June 01, 2009 - 12:10:12 AM »
Spent all weekend in the left quarter. It was hard. I wish that I had put a whole NEW quarter on, but that is more money. Here it is all welded and ground down.  To get to here was HARD!



Here it is with the 1st layer of short hair Bondo glass.  You have to use this stuff as a first coat under regular filler to make it waterproof.


The reason why the top of the quarter is open after I welded it up 2 months ago is because the new tail section was somehow wider that than what I had on the car. I had to make the car match the factory piece. Oh well more welding to do.  I'm starting to hate welding and grinding.
Rob

3 E-bodies, Megasquirt-1v3.0, Edelbrock Pro-Flo-1, Holley C950, FAST EZ-EFI; say no to carbs...yes to throttle bodies

My Pace Car restoration thread:
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=44869.0


Offline ShelbyDogg

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Re: ShelbyDogg's Pace Car (wannabe)
« Reply #125 on: July 17, 2009 - 12:08:22 AM »
Decided to paint the engine compartment to put my front suspension, back in. Painted inside the cowl too with a brush and a quart of Zero-Rust.  To anyone that removes the cowl, Paint the insides before you install it. What a mess.
I think I'll put the engine and tranny in to get this thing running again.

New blackberry cell phone doesn't show the nice ORANGE color.


Rob

3 E-bodies, Megasquirt-1v3.0, Edelbrock Pro-Flo-1, Holley C950, FAST EZ-EFI; say no to carbs...yes to throttle bodies

My Pace Car restoration thread:
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=44869.0


Offline ShelbyDogg

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Re: ShelbyDogg's Pace Car (wannabe)
« Reply #126 on: August 02, 2009 - 08:32:53 PM »
I've been working on putting everything together to see what I am missing for the upcoming Mopar Nationals. 

I installed the K-frame with new bushings, ball joints and brakes. The caliper rebuild kits cost $2.00 each, a lot cheaper than new calipers.




Painted the pedals, ane e-brake and installed them along with the master cylinder and booster.


Got my $29 tilt column on ebay and modified it to fit the challenger. I took off the rubber seal on the bottom then installed it on the chally's column mount, Slid on like it was made for it. I cut the upper mount off, then narrowed it's sides by cutting them off and rewelding,  then welded it about an inch higher back on the column.



 After painting it, here it is.

 Now installed


Cordoba columns come with a wiring adapter that plugs right into your stock wiring harness for the ignition switch and turn signals.
Pics of adapter harnesses and ends on ign switch and turn signal plugs.







« Last Edit: March 07, 2015 - 11:43:58 PM by ShelbyDogg »
Rob

3 E-bodies, Megasquirt-1v3.0, Edelbrock Pro-Flo-1, Holley C950, FAST EZ-EFI; say no to carbs...yes to throttle bodies

My Pace Car restoration thread:
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=44869.0


Offline ShelbyDogg

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Re: ShelbyDogg's Pace Car (wannabe)
« Reply #127 on: August 19, 2009 - 12:20:09 AM »
Maybe this will help anyone converting a tilt column for their e-body.
Been working on getting  the tilt column connected  to the steering box. After shortening the shaft below the rag joint, I sandblasted and painted it all.

 It's taking so long because everything going back in the car has to be blasted, primed, then painted.

One of these shafts came out of a Mopar truck so I had to take out about 6” of shaft then weld it back on the coupler base. The white one on the right will have to be shortened about 1-1/2” for the Cuda. I don’t know what it came off of but it was a Mopar also. The top already has a hole for the coupler pin, so I used my original coupler and it's inside parts.

Here are all of the parts ready for assembly


Here it is assembled.


And Here it is installed.


I’ve been slow at work. So I’m testing my Holley Commander 950 controller, that will run my fuel injection setup for this car. I bought 2 used setups from the paper for $400 and one from Craigslist for $500. Holley recently came out with a $300 WideBand upgrade kit and a guy on Chevytalk.org came out with a slick self-tuning software for it. I was going to use my Megasquirt controller, but will try these first because of the self tuning program.   
Rob

3 E-bodies, Megasquirt-1v3.0, Edelbrock Pro-Flo-1, Holley C950, FAST EZ-EFI; say no to carbs...yes to throttle bodies

My Pace Car restoration thread:
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=44869.0


Offline ShelbyDogg

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Re: ShelbyDogg's Pace Car (wannabe)
« Reply #128 on: September 06, 2009 - 02:35:58 AM »
I work on something on this car everyday, but it is a never ending. I tore my engine down to find it had a bad main bearing journal, but luckily a friend gave me his spare crank. I ordered a complete re-ring, bearing and gasket kit off of Ebay for $93 on Thursday, so I'll be putting it together soon.

 Today, I spent all day cleaning and mounting my heater-A/C housing, then drilling and installing a bunch of engine compartment parts to get everything positioned.  I also started installing the fuel injection computer and wiring harness. The area between the cowl drain and the gas pedal is where I drilled the hole for the wiring harness. It is installed here in my other car too. It is the only area where a hole can be drilled to not interfere with other parts. The big wiring harness here is all of the stuff that belongs just to the EFI.



This picture shows the custom Mopar/GM ECU I made for the EFI computer to control my ignition timing. The big plug goes to the pickup and coil as usual but the connector on the left goes to the computer.


I'm trying to patch together the wiring harnesses now.  They are a mess with wires spliced all over the place. (but I can fix it)
« Last Edit: September 22, 2009 - 12:22:06 PM by ShelbyDogg »
Rob

3 E-bodies, Megasquirt-1v3.0, Edelbrock Pro-Flo-1, Holley C950, FAST EZ-EFI; say no to carbs...yes to throttle bodies

My Pace Car restoration thread:
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=44869.0


Offline ShelbyDogg

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Re: ShelbyDogg's Pace Car (wannabe)
« Reply #129 on: September 22, 2009 - 12:38:42 PM »
I picked up a whole roll of 3/8 and 5/16 steel line at Mopar Nationals for $10.


Ran my EFI 3/8 fuel line and filter. It comes up the firewall then around the A/C blower motor, then gets a double flare and steel fitting into a high pressure filter.



I will install the pump just like in my R/T, next to the frame rail and outside of the inner wheelhouse. I'll just use the old 5/16 line as my return line. It's been working since I installed it in '04. If the pump goes out, you pull off the right rear and change it. It gets clamped under the sway bar bracket bolts.


Took about 3 weeks to clean this dirty small block up. I used a combination of gasoline, kerosene, the quarter car wash, brake cleaner, simple green, etc. It was VERY DIRTY inside and out. Installed my $93 Ebay Ring and bearing rebuild kit, a different crank, and a new $25 oil pump from Oreillys. I had an Edelbrock Torker in my shed, so the 2 barrel is getting trashed. It is painted orange too, to hide it. (it's an early 71 so it's orange) (blue looks so low performance)




Should be bolting on the flywheel,clutch, bell and trans then firing it up soon.
« Last Edit: September 22, 2009 - 11:38:17 PM by ShelbyDogg »
Rob

3 E-bodies, Megasquirt-1v3.0, Edelbrock Pro-Flo-1, Holley C950, FAST EZ-EFI; say no to carbs...yes to throttle bodies

My Pace Car restoration thread:
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=44869.0


Offline ShelbyDogg

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Re: ShelbyDogg's Pace Car (wannabe)
« Reply #130 on: October 19, 2009 - 10:51:49 AM »
Degreased my tranny with Easy-Off and paint remover as someone had painted it red. Had to scrub every inch with a tooth brushed sized wire brush. I had this behind my 440 before I went to the 833 overdrive. I then painted it a dark-cast grey color


I registered this number with the Hamtramck Registry, since it isn't my VIN. I don't know what the other numbers are. Bought it from a kid around '83. Is it yours?



Since I was putting it behind a small block, I had to have the hole in the bellhousing bored out to the 4.801" tran's front bearing retainer's diameter. At this size, I can also use my spare 833 overdrive in the future. Labor was only $30 to get it done.  Here is a pic of the painted bellhousing, trans, and shifter, bolted together. I could not use a bronze bearing because the hole was too small and it broke while trying to install it.  I then used a roller pilot bearing from Oreilly Auto Parts for $12.00, Part number FC69907 for a '92 Dakota with a 318.


Installed and bolted in.

« Last Edit: October 19, 2009 - 11:02:47 AM by ShelbyDogg »
Rob

3 E-bodies, Megasquirt-1v3.0, Edelbrock Pro-Flo-1, Holley C950, FAST EZ-EFI; say no to carbs...yes to throttle bodies

My Pace Car restoration thread:
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=44869.0


Offline ShelbyDogg

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Re: ShelbyDogg's Pace Car (wannabe)
« Reply #131 on: January 04, 2010 - 02:02:03 AM »
Had an extra week off between Christmas and New-Years so I spent a lot of time in the garage.

Been 15 degrees outside. A friend gave me an old apartment electric furnace that I took the "A" coil out of and reworked the sheet matal to make a small electric heater. It's about half it's original height. I wired it to a dryer cord from Lowes and wired in a 220 30 amp circuit. Put a thermostat on the wall. Work great!


I found this in the paper Classifieds for $400.!! a few years ago. It's about a $1100 new. I guess he couldn't sell it for $750. I found a 4bbl 900cfm throttle body at a swap meet for $15. I found another one for the Cuda on Craigslistfor $500 that came with a Throttle body. Have to jump on these.


I wanted the computer to control timing, so I made this with a GM 8-pin module look like a Mopar ECU. The plug on top still goes to the coil, power and distributor The way I wired it, I can plug in a stock ECU and still get spark.


I have to install a bung hole for the wideband O2 sensor so I bought a couple of non-foulers, cut them off, then welded them on. You can also by an 18mm nut to weld on but these are 1/2 the price.




You have to run a return line for this system so I modified a new 3/8 pickup by removing the 1/4" return line and soldering on a piece of 5/16 brake line. Old fuel line is now a return line.



Found a hall effect distributor in an early 90s Dodge truck at the Junk yard. I had to grind down one of the vanes to make all 8 the same width. I will use this later but I have it running now with a standard non-advance, electronic-Mopar lean burn distributor.



Had to bend up a bracket to mount the high pressure pump. It mounts next to the sway bar bracket and hooks to the new 3/8 brake line I ran from the tank all the way up to the firewall.



Here it is all mounted after I programmed it and fired it up and watched it on the laptop warm up.



Moved on to the last MAJOR section, The Right quarter. Out of all of the parts, it was the biggest pain in the butt trying to get the outer wheel house and wheel lip to mate together PERFECTLY. I wanted the inner lip to have full contact all the way around. In a convertible, the whole top half is thrown away since it is covered with a cap to allow the top to fit into the well. I had to cut it into sectons the put it back together.



Had to repair the rocker and front wheel house before I could move on. Pics don't show the top pieces that I also welded on.




I also welded in the right half of the trunk floor and the tank braces. I painted under the trunk floor with truck bed liner and mounted the tank.

Here is a pic of the quarter screwed on. Must have installed and removed this thing at least 30 times and it still isn't welded yet.  If you think quarter panels are easy, think again. I coated inside the panels with Zero-Rust and can only get to some parts when it is open. I did the other side with POR-15 so this will be my test. Remember, convertibles dump most of the rear roof water down into a gutter that empties into the 1/4 window's pockets. This area has to have all metal coated very well.


Slowly getting it done...........
Rob

3 E-bodies, Megasquirt-1v3.0, Edelbrock Pro-Flo-1, Holley C950, FAST EZ-EFI; say no to carbs...yes to throttle bodies

My Pace Car restoration thread:
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=44869.0


Offline ShelbyDogg

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Re: ShelbyDogg's Pace Car (wannabe)
« Reply #132 on: January 18, 2010 - 02:50:41 AM »
Finished welding on the right quarter Panel, after painting the backside, outer wheelhouse and trunk exstension with 2 coats of Zero-Rust and one coat of truck bed lined.
Sandblasted and painted the rear drums and backing plates and bent up the new axle brake lines. Installed new brake shoes and bled the brakes.

I wanted to finish working on the rear end but had to install the sway bar brackets but first I had some welding to do.  Like in my Challenger R/T, I always move the springs in 1-1/4” then swap out the e-body width housing and use a 70’s b-body rear housing to fit my 15x10” Rallyes and my 295x50 tires. I added sway bars to it and this Vert already has one. Moving the springs in requires modifying the sway bar mounting plates to also “adjust the hole 1-1/4” towards the wheel. Not doing so will angle the sway bar links instead of pointing straight up and down.

Here’s how I do it:


Here are the stock plates.




I slice down the sides with a cut-off wheel.



Bend out the sides.



Make a piece out of cardboard to fit in the holes, transfer it to metal plate, then welded them in front and back.




Ground down, etch primed then painted.


Finished product, READY TO INSTALL!

Rob

3 E-bodies, Megasquirt-1v3.0, Edelbrock Pro-Flo-1, Holley C950, FAST EZ-EFI; say no to carbs...yes to throttle bodies

My Pace Car restoration thread:
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=44869.0


Offline ShelbyDogg

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Re: ShelbyDogg's Pace Car (wannabe)
« Reply #133 on: February 22, 2010 - 09:00:55 PM »

I've been working in the basement to put my wiring together.



I pulled all of my dash harnesses out of 2 basements and 2 attics to lay everything out and see what I have. I found eight of them, from cars I parted out 25 years ago. Four of the eight had burned up bulkhead connectors and or the red and black wires from the alternator and battery. These wires always burned up on me AT NIGHT, so HEADLIGHT RELAYS are a MUST ADD part! Also adding a direct wire from battery to alternator directly bypasses the male-female connectors and doubles the contact area for supply voltage to the interior. Ammeter no longer works so a voltmeter has to be installed.

Pic of all of my dash harnesses:



After sorting everything out, I'm rebuilding my factory one. I wire tied it all together so nothing was unplugged. It was a mess with cut and taped up wires all over the place. Someone hacked it up to get it running. Good thing that wiring doesn't scare me.  It was a fully loaded one with PW, P-Top, A/C, 3 speaker, Am/FM, and the light group. I'm building a couple of loaded spares since it is all out right now and it lloks like I have 2 or more of everything except the convertible stuff.





For the car, I put together a small bulkhead connector and fuse box, so that I can run the car without a dash. All it has is ignition, start circuit, and oil pressure light. It runs my Holley Fuel injection unit through 2 wires. This makes it easier driving it around to move it and when I take it to the paint shop.





I also welded up some brackets to fit these in for my wife's 'cuda. I like sitting in these. They just FEEL right.


Rob

3 E-bodies, Megasquirt-1v3.0, Edelbrock Pro-Flo-1, Holley C950, FAST EZ-EFI; say no to carbs...yes to throttle bodies

My Pace Car restoration thread:
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=44869.0


Offline ShelbyDogg

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Re: ShelbyDogg's Pace Car (wannabe)
« Reply #134 on: April 07, 2010 - 01:10:06 AM »
Lots of pics in my thread. I hope most of you have a fast broadband connection!
Been working on the body.
I fitted the front valance, front spoiler and grill to count the number of fasteners and clips I needed from the body supply store.


I welded up 2 extra holes each side and moved a hole to fit the engine call outs to where I wanted them.


I fitted the rear valance and noticed the HUGE gaps. So I had to fix it.


I had to cut off the side off of the lower ¼ that meets the valance.


Installed valance to cut the correct angle with the cut off wheel.


Hammered the old piece to match the trunk extension and punched the holes for welding.


Welded it back on.


Used the grinder to clean it up.

 
Installed the valance to check fit.


Etch primed it and checked fit. My gap is tight so I have to slide it over a little to get it back.


Installed my wavy trunk lid. It was dipped then etch primed.
I had to put a skim coat of bondo thinned with fiberglass resin to cover the whole thing.


Finished the whole back end smooth enough for the spray filler. Spots are etch primer over the bare metal.


I bought a gallon of Clausen’s Rust Defender on Ebay but it was damaged by UPS during delivery, then destroyed. My money was refunded and had to settle for a gallon of Evercoat Feather Fill purchased locally. Feather Fill can be sprayed over etch primer but I wanted the Rust Defender because it can be sprayed over bare metal and that’s what they use on Spike TV’s Power Block shows. It is a Spray filler that you mix with hardener that I'll spray with my gun that has a 2.5 mm tip. After that more block sanding.



Rob

3 E-bodies, Megasquirt-1v3.0, Edelbrock Pro-Flo-1, Holley C950, FAST EZ-EFI; say no to carbs...yes to throttle bodies

My Pace Car restoration thread:
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=44869.0