1
Everything Else / Re: Pretty amazing car.
« Last post by cudabob496 on Today at 01:37:38 am »300 brake hp per 1100 pounds. Like a Cuda or
Challenger having 1000 brake hp!
Challenger having 1000 brake hp!
News:
Recent Posts
3
The Body Shop sponsored by AUTO METAL DIRECT / Re: Rattle Can Touch Up Paint
« Last post by money pit on October 18, 2018 - 11:54:22 pm »Thanks, I'll check them out
4
The Rest of the Tech / Re: 70 Cuda Wipers
« Last post by mrwfp on October 18, 2018 - 10:21:06 pm »You might want to check to make sure that the body shop used the correct arms with the motor. There are two arms - one that attaches to the motor shaft and the long arm that attaches to this short arm and the wiper mechanism. These are both different between the 3 speed and 2 speed wiper motors. If they used 2 speed wiper arms, the wipers won't work properly.
5
Everything Else / Dang, use to have the H2 and the 1973 Z-900!!!!
« Last post by cudabob496 on October 18, 2018 - 10:13:05 pm »6
The Rest of the Tech / Re: 70 Cuda Wipers
« Last post by DirksCuda on October 18, 2018 - 09:08:29 pm »Thanks mrwfp that is where I had them but when I turn them on they only move a couple inchs then go back . The bodyshop put the motor an arm on so im wondering if I have to do something there Thanks Dirk
7
Engine & Go Fast Goodies / Re: 70 Challenger 340 4 Barrel Air Cleaner
« Last post by 73440 on October 18, 2018 - 08:18:31 pm »8
Transmission and Drivetrain / Re: Viper 6 speed in a challenger
« Last post by jvike on October 18, 2018 - 07:40:15 pm »
The patch panel that lies on the top of the transmission tunnel was also supplied.
There are lots of welding to do, but I think the whole opearation was pretty straight forward.
Getting there, primed, but I could have done a bether job on grinding the welds.
Applied seam sealer.
Done!
The 340 got a chain tentioner, fuelpump eccentric and a new chaincover.
I opted for the Ringbrothers cluch reservoir, nice piece.
Steel flywheel and pilot bearing is in.
Time to do the final install
SST's own cluch, but it is a SACHS unit. Very happy with it, light engagment. I upgraded to a 550 hp cluch, so I'm set for future upgrades
T-56 Magnum with the throwout bearing installed. also a nice pice.
Installed! Even though every bolt was supplied I went out and got ARP bolts for the flywheel and cluch for piece of mind, and I got me some 12-point ARP bolts to mount the transmission to the bellhousing for some extra bling (that nobody can see)
We've all been there
The reverse lockout it controlled by a box that read a signal from the speed sensor on the T-56. I made a little wiring harness and taped it with a cloth type tape that is water resistant and used by Audi/VW for exterior use.
My 3.23 geared sure-grip 742 house was swaped out for this Moser built Nodular 489 house equipped with a a TrueTrac and 3.91 gears.
Good stuff.
This is about 3 hours after the mailman deliverd it. It went straight to the paint booth for a coat of paint.
They will send you a driveshaft after you supply the measurements. I upgraded to aluminium.
Done and done! Interior next.
I bought a new floorcarpet in cutpile with the mass-backing option. Mold fitted, very nice. Also got matching floor mats.
I got myself a new 4-speed console from Roseville Moparts, the old auto console was cracked and was not a 1970 console.
Finally it was done!
Let's go!
I love those three pedals!
The dash mounted reverse light was not included in the kit. Alog with the cluch pedal swich. I managed to source one and get it restored by Brewer's Performance Inc. I got to give a huge shoutout to James Zimmerman aka Calicuda70 for helping me out with that whole ordeal. It isn't easy sitting in Norway and try to buy parts of the moparts board with a dude in Chigaco who don't have paypal. James helped me out, I paypaled him and he send a money order to the dude in Chigaco. BEFORE I EVEN MANAGED TO COMPLETE THE PAYPAL TRANSFER! Like 10 mins after I asked him on Facebook if he could help! Thanks buddy! Shows how good these web-boards are
The pistol grip did not say Hurst on the side, but is a real nice pice.
1-2-3-4-5-6
The kit from SST was very good, and complete, even oil and brake fluid. Good instructions and good parts. My brother installed a T-56 in his 69 Mustang a couple of years ago. He got his kit from American Powertrain. Their kit was not so complete, the instructions was not as good as the SST, and there were no instructions at all on modifying the transmission tunnel. But the installation was less complex in the Mustang, we just had to raise the tunnel and weld in some wedges. The Clutch throw out bearing was also a better design with the SST. Also the American Powertrain kit lacked pedals, shifter, cluch and flywheel.
This was was one of the best things I have ever done to the car, worth every penny! The car is a totaly new experience, and it almost feels like you got another 100 horsepower. The 3.91 also woke the car up. The shifter is smooth and very short throw. It's so much fun!
9
Transmission and Drivetrain / Re: Viper 6 speed in a challenger
« Last post by jvike on October 18, 2018 - 07:39:53 pm »I did the SST Perfect Fit T-56 back in January. Here goes..
Unpacking, here is the T-56 with the modified shifter. It operates the rod comming out of the rear.
Close Ratio version.
Brand spankin' new!
My first job was installing the pedals. Everything came with the kit. I had some issues with the clutch rod hitting the brake swich bracket, but it was fixed with a washer at the bolt (now shown here).
The 4-speed trans hump was as easy as laying it on the floor and draw around it, and cut 1" inside the mark. All the instructions was very good.
The cut.
One of my priorities was to check the bellhousing runout early, so the project wouldn't stall. I needed to correct it using .007 offset pins.
I've been inactive in the forums for some time (years), but the car is still running hard
Welding the 4-speed hump.
Removed most of the interior, but used these weld/grind protecting mats on the dash, windshield, and headliner.
Detailed instructions also on how to make the mark to cut the torsion bar crossmember.
Pretty straight forward really..
The new transmission crossmember will mark where you have to drill the new holes.
Welding the end plates to the torsion bar crossmember. These plates had welded on them guides for the new bolt holes, so the frame won't collapse when you torque them. Unfortunatly I didn't take a picture of them.
Here are the paper templates used to determine the cutting to expand the tunnel to fit the T-56. The template uses the shifter hole as refrence.
Shown here is a rather large hole that is cut in front of the 4-speed hump. The floor had to be rised here to fit the transmission.
Transmission beeing fitted for the first time. Had it in and out a bunch of times.
My buddy/welder checking for clerance. Seen here is a cut that is made along the whole 4-speed hump to raise it. This metal strip was the only thing not included in the kit. Also seen is how the floor has been cut along the top of the 4-speed hump, and sectioned in three pieces.
Seen here, next to the cut floor, is the patch to cover the big hile in front of the tunnel. Also the big cardbord templates laying around are used to determine the shape of the tunnel. You place them over the tunnel and bend the metal to fit. Very easy.
The supplied pre-bent patch in front of the tunnel.
Transmission fully fitted with the tunnel spot welded together for the first time to check for clearance.
Unpacking, here is the T-56 with the modified shifter. It operates the rod comming out of the rear.
Close Ratio version.
Brand spankin' new!
My first job was installing the pedals. Everything came with the kit. I had some issues with the clutch rod hitting the brake swich bracket, but it was fixed with a washer at the bolt (now shown here).
The 4-speed trans hump was as easy as laying it on the floor and draw around it, and cut 1" inside the mark. All the instructions was very good.
The cut.
One of my priorities was to check the bellhousing runout early, so the project wouldn't stall. I needed to correct it using .007 offset pins.
I've been inactive in the forums for some time (years), but the car is still running hard
Welding the 4-speed hump.
Removed most of the interior, but used these weld/grind protecting mats on the dash, windshield, and headliner.
Detailed instructions also on how to make the mark to cut the torsion bar crossmember.
Pretty straight forward really..
The new transmission crossmember will mark where you have to drill the new holes.
Welding the end plates to the torsion bar crossmember. These plates had welded on them guides for the new bolt holes, so the frame won't collapse when you torque them. Unfortunatly I didn't take a picture of them.
Here are the paper templates used to determine the cutting to expand the tunnel to fit the T-56. The template uses the shifter hole as refrence.
Shown here is a rather large hole that is cut in front of the 4-speed hump. The floor had to be rised here to fit the transmission.
Transmission beeing fitted for the first time. Had it in and out a bunch of times.
My buddy/welder checking for clerance. Seen here is a cut that is made along the whole 4-speed hump to raise it. This metal strip was the only thing not included in the kit. Also seen is how the floor has been cut along the top of the 4-speed hump, and sectioned in three pieces.
Seen here, next to the cut floor, is the patch to cover the big hile in front of the tunnel. Also the big cardbord templates laying around are used to determine the shape of the tunnel. You place them over the tunnel and bend the metal to fit. Very easy.
The supplied pre-bent patch in front of the tunnel.
Transmission fully fitted with the tunnel spot welded together for the first time to check for clearance.
