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Electrical / Re: FITech with FBO HRR688
« Last post by 70chall440 on February 21, 2019 - 10:21:04 pm »
Thats outstanding and is very similar to my experiences with EFI (Fitech, FAST and Holley). I completely agree with your last statement, the haters are people who have never tried EFI and/or don't understand it. I will never run a carb again if I can help it.
Everything Else / Re:
« Last post by Cudakiller70 on February 21, 2019 - 10:09:23 pm »
That is cool love stuff like that!
Cars for Sale / Re: 1972 Dodge Challenger
« Last post by T/ASteveg31 on February 21, 2019 - 04:08:12 pm »

For sale a 1972 Dodge Challenger 318 Automatic. I have a 340 stroker motor 500+/- HP. Four speed conversion kit.  Pistol grip shifter.posi rear 355 gears. BF good rich tires. Rally wheels. T/A Front Chin spoiler and rear spoiler. Rally hoods. Rally Dash. Rear dual cut out valance with chrome tips. Extra hoods. Exterior interior. a lot of extras Too much to list. Asking 17,000 OBO in Carbondale Pa, 18407
Electrical / Re: FITech with FBO HRR688
« Last post by dsburch on February 21, 2019 - 02:50:35 pm »
Update:  FiTech working really well.  Starts right up, and the Lunati 703 idles lower and smoother than I thought it could.  The system will find proper idle in gear and with the a/c on, which is totally new and totally appreciated.  I am doubting a lot of what the forums say about the unit only learning when the temp reaches 170F.  My unit seems to have settled in, been driven a few times, and in cool weather, has barely reached 170F, but it certainly seems to have learned the motor while spending most it's run time far well below the 170F mark (so far, but summer in Texas is coming).  It starts without pedaling, holds a high cold idle for too long, and I'll work on that...I think I should probably change the thermostat, but it's just working too well to dive in and fix it so far.  I've only changed the idle and low rpm AFRs, taking targets to 14.1 due to a very slight after-smell, and it seems to like it - plugs look about right.  AFRS run about 13.5ish cold.  432 inches, Stealth heads at about 10:1, and Lunati 703 cam.  Pulls so much stronger and is much more ticklish to the GO foot.  Advice to others - their data leaves much to be desired.  Read all the posted reviews and installs you can - they are getting more and better all the time.  You'll learn more skipping the goofies and the haters and focusing on the problem solvers.  Can't wait for a long summer trip to test the mileage....  If I don't like it, I'll change it while I sit in the a/c.  :biggrin:     
Thanks everyone for the sentiments. The appraiser came by Tuesday. I had already made up a list of parts I could tell were damaged, I went thru the AMD website and priced everything in the rear plus anything else I could think of. I came up to 16k in parts alone. I also have my original list of parts I have in it already and that one is about 12k. Hopefully early next week I will hear the final word from Hagerty and can find out about the salvage value.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Transmission and Drivetrain / Re: Loss of Reverse
« Last post by cv70chall on February 21, 2019 - 10:51:45 am »
Yes, the U-joints are good and tight (new) and the diff is also good and tight.
Everything Else / Re:
« Last post by jimynick on February 20, 2019 - 11:32:12 pm »
Some great, out of the box stuff, thanks for sharing!  :cheers:
Transmission and Drivetrain / Re: Loss of Reverse
« Last post by 70chall440 on February 20, 2019 - 09:48:12 pm »
Did you check your U joints when you were working on the trans? In my experience, most of the time you get the rear "clunk" its either U joint related or differential (rear end) connected.
The Rest of the Tech / Re: Remote Mirror 70 Cuda
« Last post by 70chall440 on February 20, 2019 - 09:45:25 pm »

I am not aware of anything that attaches to the door frame other than some plastic clips to keep the cables routed away from the door glass as it is raised and lowered. I just put my Cuda together and i did exactly as I described. Could you perhaps post some pictures of what you are talking about?
Transmission and Drivetrain / Re: Loss of Reverse
« Last post by cv70chall on February 20, 2019 - 04:54:39 pm »
Discovered it was a broken band. Replaced and we're back in business, however, I still have the CLUNK when I go into reverse.
Is this an adjustment? Could the spring be out of adjustment at the servo? U-joints are new and tight/ no play. Kickdown and band adjustments are set properly.
I don't want this to be the reason the band broke.

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