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The Good Stuff => Member's Restoration Projects => Topic started by: 7212Mopar on December 27, 2012 - 03:13:49 am

Title: NorCal 73 Challenger
Post by: 7212Mopar on December 27, 2012 - 03:13:49 am
Hi All, just got my car early this month and placed my intro in the newbie section. Car needs some work but for now will be minor compare to most of the projects presented here. I am amazed with the wealth of skill and knowlege being share on this site.

Anyway, I got a week off from work (company close for the holidays) and it has been raining hard the last few days, so perfect weather to work on the car. So far I replaced my ignition and door locks, painted the steering column and changed the engine oil. Took sometime to clean up the bottom of the engine bay and confirmed that I do have a 340 in the car. The engine seems to be orange color oringinally and was later painted blue. I wonder if I have a 70-71 340 with higher compression ratio and HP. How do I find out? Is the stamping of "70" on the passemger side engine block means it is a 1970 block? Also, the car was originally factory equipped with a 318 and 904 tranny. How can you tell if I have a 904 or 727? My next task will be to install the inspection cover (missing), change transmission fluid and may be the transmission mount as well.
Title: Re: NorCal 73 Challenger
Post by: 74challenger03 on December 27, 2012 - 08:40:26 am
yes,I believe that is a 70 and look on this site   http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=66 (http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=66)
Title: Re: NorCal 73 Challenger
Post by: Jamiez on December 27, 2012 - 09:26:40 am
This may help with the transmission

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/transguide.pdf (http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/transguide.pdf)
Title: Re: NorCal 73 Challenger
Post by: 7212Mopar on January 27, 2013 - 11:36:02 pm
Today is a nice sunny day so I put the battery back in the car after reinstalling the refurbished battery tray and took her out for a 30 minute drive. Car runs good except the engine stalled twice when brake moderately hard. Car is AT and idle at 900 rpm smooth. Do you guys think it is a carb problem or stall converter?

Have not done much to the car except put on a rubber steering cover and top off with a leather wheel wrap. I now have a good grip with the stock steering wheel.

Car's exterior paint is decent but the previous owner did not touch the interior. The sheet metals are in good shape but there are some surface rust. So I am grinding the surface rust (starting at the tunk) the best I can before spraying on some rust converter. I will follow up with the rust encapsulator and paint. Laying down in the trunk with your feet hanging out is kind of an award position and I think I know why the previous owner did not bother. I will move on to the rest of the car's interior in the next few weeks. The goal is to clean up the rust the best I can, then new cover for rear seat, new Procar front seats, 3 point seat belts, new carpet and new dash pad. I will finish all these before moving on to the mechanical stuff. Car is driveable now and is probably the slowest muscle car around. But I don't care, I like it. No, I love it.
Title: Re: NorCal 73 Challenger
Post by: moparman82 on January 28, 2013 - 11:20:18 pm
looks like we are in the same 73 w/ 70 340 boat
Title: Re: NorCal 73 Challenger
Post by: Haddixj on January 28, 2013 - 11:26:12 pm
Where at in cal? Im in Sacramento
Title: Re: NorCal 73 Challenger
Post by: 7212Mopar on January 29, 2013 - 12:34:42 pm
Right next to SFO, home of UAL and constant jet engine roar. Lucky you are so close to Sac Raceway.
Title: Re: NorCal 73 Challenger
Post by: Aracer on January 29, 2013 - 11:26:16 pm
http://www.racesonoma.com/schedule/dragstrip/ (http://www.racesonoma.com/schedule/dragstrip/)
Title: Re: NorCal 73 Challenger
Post by: Topcat on January 29, 2013 - 11:36:19 pm
Right next to SFO, home of UAL and constant jet engine roar. Lucky you are so close to Sac Raceway.

I am driving into Burlingame Hotel area almost everyday near where you are?
Title: Re: NorCal 73 Challenger
Post by: 7212Mopar on January 30, 2013 - 12:57:12 am
I am driving into Burlingame Hotel area almost everyday near where you are?

Got to go a bit more north and the other side of 101. I am in Millbrae. Come to think of it, I hear the train too.
Title: Re: NorCal 73 Challenger
Post by: FY1Cuda on January 30, 2013 - 09:42:38 pm
Circle June 2nd, 2013, on your calendar.  It's the Mopar show in Fremont and it's a don't-miss show and swap meet. 
Title: Re: NorCal 73 Challenger
Post by: Aracer on January 31, 2013 - 01:43:44 pm
Dude's, everyone hears the damn train. It's still rips on the horn at many intersections in Santa Clara, Co. For What? The cannery's are all gone, with firetrap condo's in their place. It's getting nasty with the Summerhill Homes LLC, take over of the city governments with legal bribes, and the OVER CROWDING of cluster turds, they call homes; with the rest of the citizens looking, in horror at the three story bomb shelter dominoes. Yes, I said, BOMB SHELTER first floors, complete with pored reinforced concrete walls with two additional walls of cinder block, filled with dirt. All to create an Enclave, or what looks like a PHONY, Hanging Gardens of Shangrala, for certain people that gravitate to a foreign concept of protected living at the expense and dominance of the surrounding homes.  Fremont government is total dominated by this race of immigrants, why would I walk into an area that despises the previous residents? Screw the party in that CHP sponsored pig fest. Last time I hauled the cuda to Sonoma Drags we passed 8 CHP units all pointing radar at us in the FREMONT SPEED TRAP AND WEIGH STATION area.  I was tipped off to the problem ahead by a motor cycle Cop flagging with his arms as he passed. That means a problem ahead. I mention all this for anyone who drives through the Bay Area. Beware of Fremont, and the stoplight cameras too.   
Title: Re: NorCal 73 Challenger
Post by: 7212Mopar on January 31, 2013 - 03:05:58 pm
It is a well known problem going to Sears Point with the CHP. If you have an exhaust bypass, just make sure it is closed before you get on public roads. As for red light camera intersections, I have an app on my phone and I take the long way to go around. With the amount of traffic, chances of getting a ticket is too high and I don't run red light.

Ok, lets get back to car discussions, any pointer as to why my engine stall when moderately brake hard. My searches point to float problem and looks like I need to open up the carb to check.
Title: Re: NorCal 73 Challenger
Post by: FY1Cuda on January 31, 2013 - 08:32:37 pm
Dude's, everyone hears the damn train. It's still rips on the horn at many intersections in Santa Clara, Co. For What? The cannery's are all gone, with firetrap condo's in their place. It's getting nasty with the Summerhill Homes LLC, take over of the city governments with legal bribes, and the OVER CROWDING of cluster turds, they call homes; with the rest of the citizens looking, in horror at the three story bomb shelter dominoes. Yes, I said, BOMB SHELTER first floors, complete with pored reinforced concrete walls with two additional walls of cinder block, filled with dirt. All to create an Enclave, or what looks like a PHONY, Hanging Gardens of Shangrala, for certain people that gravitate to a foreign concept of protected living at the expense and dominance of the surrounding homes.  Fremont government is total dominated by this race of immigrants, why would I walk into an area that despises the previous residents? Screw the party in that CHP sponsored pig fest. Last time I hauled the cuda to Sonoma Drags we passed 8 CHP units all pointing radar at us in the FREMONT SPEED TRAP AND WEIGH STATION area.  I was tipped off to the problem ahead by a motor cycle Cop flagging with his arms as he passed. That means a problem ahead. I mention all this for anyone who drives through the Bay Area. Beware of Fremont, and the stoplight cameras too.   
Geez...Sorry I mentioned Fremont.  Try to have nice day.
Title: Re: NorCal 73 Challenger
Post by: Aracer on February 08, 2013 - 04:27:57 pm
Ya gotta vent sometime! It's no problem, we have processed worse, sh11 into the "PIT". Mean while, local street racers are in the news lately. I think they watch to many movies, along with the guy's that shoot it out with the cops.
 
The Wed. eve. drags are on now, so get your Mopars up there and "represent". I never see any E body's except for myself on Wed.
Title: Re: NorCal 73 Challenger
Post by: Powerram on March 17, 2013 - 09:34:53 pm
Looks like a good solid project.  :2thumbs:
Title: Re: NorCal 73 Challenger
Post by: 7212Mopar on March 21, 2013 - 02:25:25 am
Took a couple of weekends and finally ready to reassembly of the interior. Most parts already received but waiting for the new dash pad and the NOS rivets for the vin tag. Partially installed the new headliner the past weekend (pain) and hope to wrap it up this coming weekend. But before that, I will be heading over to Laguna Seca this Friday for the SRT Track Experience (package already paid for with my YJ purchase last year). I am a bit excited and may get lucky and get a ride on the new Viper.
Title: Re: NorCal 73 Challenger
Post by: 7212Mopar on March 24, 2013 - 01:54:00 am
Side track. It was a great day with the SRT Experience and met some great Mopar fans. I enjoyed the road course and the face off competition the most. As for the track sessions, I found out that I am no race car driver as I only managed 85 mph at the straight whereas the instructors were doing over 100 mph during the hot laps. Also no Viper ride.  :stomp:

Back to work on the 73 tomorrow, hopefully finish the headliner.
Title: Re: NorCal 73 Challenger
Post by: Aracer on April 01, 2013 - 02:49:03 am
Wed. eve. drags at Sonoma are up and running!
Title: Re: NorCal 73 Challenger
Post by: 7212Mopar on May 02, 2013 - 02:14:42 am
Slowly but steadily getting the work done. The headliner is in, not a very good job by any means but my very first attempt. I think I can live with it. One thing I learned is not to touch it again after you played with the heat gun.

I also spent sometime thinking about the floor insulation. Since it took some effort to clean up the factory tar sealant and the surface rust, I decided not to use the expensive Dynamat stuff which will be difficult to remove in case I need to do it again. I also don't want to just lay carpet or the jute insulation over the metal which will hold moisture. So finally I decided to go with some double sided aluminum foil bubble wrap picked up from home improvement store. It can be cut easily and form to the floor contour and then join with aluminum tape. It is very light and the noise blocking property is likely nonexistent. However, the air gap should be a decent heat barrier. One big problem is that it makes the funny sound when you step on it. My solution was to use some industrial grade acoustic aluminum foil back tape (similar to Dynamat except not as heavy) to place on top of the high traffic area follow by a layer of jute insulation then carpet. It seems to work good by putting my weight on it but not road tested yet. I think this layer should aslo provide some heat radiation reflective property and will let any moisture dry out quickly when the car floor pan goes through each heat/cool cycle every time you drive it.

New three point seat belts and carpet are also done. I plan to finish the back seat this weekend as well. Once I recieve the dashpad, I can then button it up and put the new seats in. Need to order some LED bulbs too since the dash is apart now. New wheels and tires are on order and she will have new shoes in two weeks. Hopefully get her back on the road before end of May. I plan to start on the mechanical stuff after summer.
Title: Re: NorCal 73 Challenger
Post by: 7212Mopar on May 23, 2013 - 01:59:10 am
Front and rear seats are in. The fronts are Procar seats and it is more comfortable than the tired original seats. It reclines too. New 17 inch YO Rallye with Hankook tires also installed. Front is 245-45-17 and rear is 275-40-17. Rear tires have about 3/4 inch to the spring clear and about 1/2" clear between tire and inside wheel well lip. Everything looks clear but car has not been driven yet. Front seems to ride high and will need to lower about an inch.

Called Roseville today and was told that UR had problem with their cooler. The dash pad is still about two weeks out and kind of definite that it will not be ready for the show next week. At this point, I am thinking to just button up the instrument panel back, drive to the Mopar Alley show and enter the "under construction" class :-[
Title: Re: NorCal 73 Challenger
Post by: FY1Cuda on May 23, 2013 - 11:49:10 am
You're doing a really nice job on the car.  I do hope to see it in the project category at Ohlone.  For your headliner, it just looks like it needs to be pulled a little tighter to the sides.  Usually, the casings (that the bows slide through) need to be slit on the back so the fabric doesn't bunch up over the doors. 
Title: Re: NorCal 73 Challenger
Post by: 7212Mopar on May 23, 2013 - 03:27:23 pm
Thanks FY1Cuda. I think the headliner is going to be the way it is since holes had been cut and heat gun applied. I will give it a second try a few years down the road. May be sooner if I get a lot of negative comments  :rofl: May be I should pay the pros to do it next time. See you at Fremont. Most likely I will take my YJ. There are two YJ's in my club. The one with roadrashes on the passenger side wheels is mine.
Title: Re: NorCal 73 Challenger
Post by: Topcat on May 23, 2013 - 11:21:17 pm
See you at Ohlone. It'll be a great show.

FY1cuda is really good on helping me on my headliner.   :2thumbs:
Title: Re: NorCal 73 Challenger
Post by: Jimmy on May 30, 2013 - 04:55:57 pm
What backspacing are you using on those awesome looking wheels?
Title: Re: NorCal 73 Challenger
Post by: 7212Mopar on May 30, 2013 - 06:05:49 pm
YO Rallye comes in two sizes only. 17x8 is 4.25" BS and 17x9 is 5" BS.
Title: Re: NorCal 73 Challenger
Post by: johns cuda shop on May 30, 2013 - 10:08:06 pm
Luv The seats, I bet they are 10 times better than the originals. Nice build :ylsuper:
Title: Re: NorCal 73 Challenger
Post by: 7212Mopar on May 30, 2013 - 11:22:55 pm
Luv The seats, I bet they are 10 times better than the originals. Nice build :ylsuper:

Thanks. I would not qualify my project as a build, more like a minor refresh of the interior. The other projects presented on this site are work of arts.

The seat padding is made out of mostly some type of memory foam, minimum steel springs. It is firm and supportive. However, the vinyl and stitching cannot compare to the quality of the stock seat. Also the seat adapter has three slots and seat will be too high if the bottom slots are used. The middle slots seems to work for me. In order to use that, the bottom slots by the doors need to be cut. The seat adapter is powder coated including the mounting studs. The coating at the studs must be removed otherwise the nuts won't go. will see how long the seats will last.
Title: Re: NorCal 73 Challenger
Post by: 7212Mopar on June 05, 2013 - 09:37:15 pm
 :jumping:I am extremely delighted when I got home today and found my UR dashpad has finally arrived. It took almost a long two and half months. Dave stay with it all the way and got UR to ship it to me direct when it was finally ready. I know what I will be doing this weekend. Hope the wife keep the kid company and free me up.

First impression is "fresh". It is not an exact duplicate of the stock piece from a look and feel stand point. The stock grain is more definitive and pronounced whereas the UR is more smooth. Overall is a very good piece. From what I read from other threads, I fully expected to do some trimming and fitting. I will post again once I get into it. I have a 3 speaker AC dash but the side speakers openings of the UR dash are not cut so I am somewhat nervous about that. For sure I will pick up some brand new Xacto blades.

Since it has been awhile after I took the dash apart, I forgot how the light bar wiring is supposed to be routed. Need help if the wiring route per the picture below is correct. I took a few pictures of the pads and put them in photobucket. Hope the link works.

http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/7212Mopar/slideshow/UR%20Dashpad (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/7212Mopar/slideshow/UR%20Dashpad)


 
Title: Re: NorCal 73 Challenger
Post by: 7212Mopar on June 16, 2013 - 03:10:09 am
My 73's interior make over was completed this morning after having her in the garage for almost six months. There are few loose ends, map light does not work even with new bulb and I added a few scratches to my instrument face plate, so some follow-up work needed. I took her out in the afternoon for a drive around the neighborhood and then got her up on the freeway for a short cruise (burst). Got a few thumbs up and two separate inquries if the car is for sale. The engine runs smooth but the problem of stalling when brake hard still persist. I checked all the vacuum lines and carb bolts for leaks already, so looks like more reading and investiagation to come. Car also spit coolant after I shut her down in the garage. Looks like I will be flushing the system and change out the thermostat tomorrow plus order an overflow tank.

I also upgraded most of the light bulbs with LED replacement. I see this excercise is a try and learn thing as some of the bulbs won't fit. The electronic flashers I ordered with the LED also don't work, hazzard ok but not turn signal. I ended up resintalling my orginal hazzard flasher and picked up a heavy duty electro mechanical flasher from Autozone for the turn signal. So everything works nicely now and brighter. The tail lamp bulb used is a 32 LEDs 360 degree bulb and not the panel array type since I prefer not to modify the stock housing. I think the light dispersion is good and looks stock except brighter.

Here a few pcitures taken today
Title: Re: NorCal 73 Challenger
Post by: 7212Mopar on June 17, 2013 - 01:05:53 am
After pouring in a bottle of Prestone radiator cleaner and took the car for a drive. Windows down, heater full blast to give the system a work out. Drove by the speed shop that I used to hang out when I was in high school. The place still looks the same after all these years. I remember that they used to have a 426 HEMI at the window display.

I thought flushing the cooling system and changing the hoses today should be a walk in the park. That was until I started opening it up. The last owner had the car for more than 10 years and only put about 7k miles on it and probably did not give the car the love it deserves. Looks like more parts are needed to replaced the corroded parts. I hope the engine block is in better shape. I did not see any issues at the freeze plugs and the old coolant drained out was not that bad. The major let down today was when I pulled out the wiring harness that was pushed underneath the ignition coil  :pullinghair:. I was kind of deflated, surprised and glad at the same time that there was no electrical fire. Anyone knows a good source for a replacement wiring harness? This is the one that tie to the ignition system, alternator and AC.

At this point, I think I should just finish up with the cooling system to make sure that is all good before I move on to the wiring stuff. Appreciate any feedbacks and pointers.
Title: Re: NorCal 73 Challenger
Post by: 7212Mopar on June 19, 2013 - 03:01:29 pm
The pipe nipple for the bypass hose is destroyed by my pliers and is still not coming out  :1zhelp:. WD40, Evaporust not helping. I used the torch for a bit but back off since it is too close to the carb (what the hell I was thinking). So looks like I need to take the manifold off the car to have a better chance to get it off. The threads at the manifold is pretty corroded and not sure how well it will seat with the new even I get it off eventually. So my fall back plan will be doing an upgrade, thinking of going with Edelbrock RPM Air Gap and mate with a 650 CFM Thunder Series AVS. I have a 750 CFM Performer on the car now and it might be too big. The engine is essentially stock (as far as I know) and my future plan may add headers. Car will be mostly used as a weekend driver and not drag races. Am I going with the right direction or you guys might have a better idea?
Title: Re: NorCal 73 Challenger
Post by: 7212Mopar on June 20, 2013 - 08:40:43 pm
Suggestions, Recommendations? Need expert advise.  :1zhelp:

Will need to order parts soon so I can get started with the work. Thanks.
Title: Re: NorCal 73 Challenger
Post by: Aracer on June 23, 2013 - 09:51:55 pm
      The nipple can be hack sawed from the inside with a blade holder. Cut 3 or 4 slots into the pipe stopping when the threads from the manifold get close, then use a small chisel to chip the sections towards the center of hole. You should use Liquid Wrench ahead of time to penetrate the threads. Use a pipe clean up tap.
       Another way is to tap a solid rod or chisel into the pipe first, then grab the outside with vice grips. This will prevent the tube from collapsing before you can budge it. Again the Liquid wrench must be given time to work first.
     Lastly, you can drill out the remains of the stub then re-thread.
Title: Re: NorCal 73 Challenger
Post by: 7212Mopar on June 24, 2013 - 12:22:02 am
Thanks Aracer. I got the old manifold out of the car but the nipple was torn flushed to the hole. I will definitely take your suggestion and play with it some more to save the piece.

Anyway, I ordered the stuffs late on Friday afternoon and received the package next day morning, incredile service from Summit. So today I started the mock up and tear down. The followings are the measurements I made. May be this will be useful to someone. Measurements are from centerline of manifold bolt holes to top of air cleaner with a level and tape measure, should be decent measurements.

Original factory manifold, Edelbrock Performer 750 CFM Carb with 3/8" gasket and stock air cleaner: Front, 8.75 inches, Rear, 10.125 inches.
New Edelbrock RPM Air Gap Manifold, Edelbrock AVS 650 CFM Carb with thin gasket (came with carb) and Edelbrock 1221 drop base 14" air cleaner: Front, 10.125 inches, Rear 11.125 inches.
Differences: New setup, front taller by 1.375 inch and rear taller by 1 inch.
Original air cleaner top to underside of Rallye bulge hood is approximately 2.75 inches clear. So new setup clear by 1.375 inch.
Factory manifold weight 45 Lbs. New Edelbrock RPM Air Gap Manifold weight 20 lbs. 25 lbs weight saving, more if air cleaner is included.

New Edelbrock manifold has no exhaust port but oddly the recommended Edelbrock intake manifold gasket has the exhaust port cutout. One size fits old and new?

I got lots of clean up to do before assembly. More parts to order and the engine harness from YO has not been shipped. The old manifold has a lot of carbon buildup, so I am thinking of adding an oil catch can between the PCV and the Carb. I have one installed on my 392 which is one of the more popular mod for the new Challenger.
Title: Re: NorCal 73 Challenger
Post by: 7212Mopar on July 22, 2013 - 12:01:20 am
      The nipple can be hack sawed from the inside with a blade holder. Cut 3 or 4 slots into the pipe stopping when the threads from the manifold get close, then use a small chisel to chip the sections towards the center of hole. You should use Liquid Wrench ahead of time to penetrate the threads. Use a pipe clean up tap.
       Another way is to tap a solid rod or chisel into the pipe first, then grab the outside with vice grips. This will prevent the tube from collapsing before you can budge it. Again the Liquid wrench must be given time to work first.
     Lastly, you can drill out the remains of the stub then re-thread.

Thanks Aracer. Followed your advice and got the last piece out and save my factory manifold. The threads will need to be cleaned up but definitely can be reused.

Replaced a cheap fuel pressure regulator (brand new and leak) with a much higher quality unit today. Checked engine timing and tuned the carb. Engine was initially running real rich and could not set idle. Turned out engine was running at 40 degree advance (suprised engine starts at first crank). I must had bumped the distributor when working on the new manifold because timing was good before I started. Everything set now with engine idling at 750 RPM, 17 in-hg vacuum steady, 8 degree initial advance and total all in at 38 degree around 2500 RPM. RPM gauge is acting werid showing 2000 RPM when idling at 750 RPM (timing light). The gauge behaves normal when car is at freeway speed.  :feedback: Car drives good and no ping. Next week I might disconnect vacuum advance and play with initial to get 36 degree total based on CP's recommendation on other threads.

Work completed under this phase includes new Edelbrock RPM Air Gap intake manifold, 650 AVS Performer Carb with dropped base air cleaner, refurbished throttle linkage, fuel pressure regulator, new radiator, overflow tank, new washer bottle and pump, replaced all hoses, caps and rotors, new ignition coil, ignition wires with irridium spark plugs, oil catch can and new engine wiring harness.

I drove the car for about 12 miles of street and freeway. Already I can see the oil catch can (cheap one) is already working and my new carb and intake are protected. Engine definitely feels stronger and smoother. Acceleration is good but will need to adjust the kick down linkage. Transmission does not kick down at full throttle. Also no more problem of engine stall when braking hard :jumping:

Next phase: underside of the car, install flexplate cover and deep transmission pan (new filter with extension and change oil), clean and grease suspension, U joints and change differntial fluid.
Title: Re: NorCal 73 Challenger
Post by: 7212Mopar on July 28, 2013 - 06:01:24 pm
Spent a good part of a day reading the manual and all the threads concerning the auto trans kick down linkage adjustment. Adjusted it and car drives good and transmission holding gears and upshifting. Problem is the stock slider bar is too short for the new carb and the taller intake manifold, requiring a bolt placed at the slider linkage and not enough slot left for throttle return in case of a linkage lock up. My solution was to fabricate a longer piece out of aluminum bar stock. It is not stock looking but if works and save me a few dollars for a cable system. I took the car out this morning to test drive to see how it works. First around the local streets before taking it onto the freeway. Going about 60 mph and I floored the gas pedal, trans downshifted, seconday opened and car pull quickly to 85 mph (well not as quick as my SRT8 of course). Soon after I done that, a brand new M5 that was behind me decided to past me and did it like I was standing still. I suppose he did not like my exhaust fumes. That M5 was quick.
Title: Re: NorCal 73 Challenger
Post by: 7212Mopar on September 03, 2013 - 08:14:59 pm
Did a few things the last couple of weeks:

1. Replaced rear leaf springs with Mopar XHD's. No ride height changes so I added the helper springs at the rear section. Seems to work good (stiffer) and no more sagging behind. Front is still an inch higher and will be dealt with later.

2. Installed a new repro rear bumper and reinstalled the 73 bumprettes. No more holes at the rear valence.

3. Replaced the old worn out rubber transmission mount with a poly unit. Seems to work good and no vibration.

4. Replaced all the rubber fuel hoses by the fuel tank including the vapor recovery unit. The 40 years old rubber hoses were never changed and they crumbled in my hand. It was a disaster waiting to happen.

5. Played with the ignition timing and mixture some more. Set initial to around 8 degrees and disconnected the vacuum advance per CP's advise on some older threads. I am amazed as to how the car behaves now with this simple change. More torque and power from down low to the top and the car is a lot more responsive. Engine sounds more healthy too. May be I (and previous owner) did something wrong before? Don't know what my total timing is since the timing tape fell off. Need to carve a line for 36 degree and recheck. When going up steep hill, there seems to be a slight engine knock with trans at D. May be I need to keep it in low gears. Overall, I am please with how it runs now.
Title: Re: NorCal 73 Challenger
Post by: FY1Cuda on September 05, 2013 - 06:07:22 pm
Your car is looking great.  I haven't noticed your posts for awhile, so I enjoyed seeing your photo with Gotelli's Speed Shop.  My buddy and I went there a few times in the mid-sixties; I haven't thought about it years. 
Aracer's idea of putting a bar down that nipple before trying to remove it was a great suggestion.  I think a lot of us have destroyed those things trying to remove them with vise-grips and whatever.
Keep up the good work.
Title: Re: NorCal 73 Challenger
Post by: 7212Mopar on September 05, 2013 - 08:01:52 pm
FY1Cuda, Thanks for the kind words of encouragement. Gotelli is a pretty quiet place these days compares to the time I went there in the early eighties. I think places like Summit and Jegs are hurting their sales. I suppose that they still do machine works and building race engines for customers. Once awhile I still see some nice muscle cars parked in their lot, not all Mopars though.

There are still more underside works that I have not got around to like changing the trans oil and pan, grease the joints and change the differential oil. Also have not look at the brakes at all but they work fine other than the front brake pad squeaky noise when cold. I will take a break first and will be taking my 73 to the Normandin Dodge Mopar gathering at San Jose on Sep 14. May be I will see you there? I heard they filled all of the available 120 car slots already.
Title: Re: NorCal 73 Challenger
Post by: flagcraig on July 21, 2014 - 01:18:10 pm
Front and rear seats are in. The fronts are Procar seats and it is more comfortable than the tired original seats. It reclines too. New 17 inch YO Rallye with Hankook tires also installed. Front is 245-45-17 and rear is 275-40-17. Rear tires have about 3/4 inch to the spring clear and about 1/2" clear between tire and inside wheel well lip. Everything looks clear but car has not been driven yet. Front seems to ride high and will need to lower about an inch.

Called Roseville today and was told that UR had problem with their cooler. The dash pad is still about two weeks out and kind of definite that it will not be ready for the show next week. At this point, I am thinking to just button up the instrument panel back, drive to the Mopar Alley show and enter the "under construction" class :-[
Who did you buy your wheels from?  I can't tell are those chrome or standard factory finish?

Thanks.
Title: Re: NorCal 73 Challenger
Post by: 7212Mopar on July 21, 2014 - 05:36:23 pm
Who did you buy your wheels from?  I can't tell are those chrome or standard factory finish?

Thanks.

Cast Aluminum 17" Rallye wheels Replica, polished aluminum coated finish, 8" wide front and 9" wide rear. They are sold under YEAR ONE, a supporting vendor on this site with 15% off, see advertisement on the forum page. They also make the 17" Magnum Replica.
Title: Re: NorCal 73 Challenger
Post by: flagcraig on July 23, 2014 - 12:54:00 pm
Cast Aluminum 17" Rallye wheels Replica, polished aluminum coated finish, 8" wide front and 9" wide rear. They are sold under YEAR ONE, a supporting vendor on this site with 15% off, see advertisement on the forum page. They also make the 17" Magnum Replica.
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Thanks for the info.  Looks like you did the same thing I am considering with the Edlebrock Air Gap.  I worry about the clearance but it looks like yours did just fine.  I am going with the Holley 670 Avenger but I can't see there being much of a difference in carb height.
Title: Re: NorCal 73 Challenger
Post by: 7212Mopar on January 19, 2016 - 11:31:39 pm
My car has been sitting for over a year after I removed the heads and now entered into the next phase ready for more. I spent two weekends working on it and the engine and trans are out of the car now. This is my first time removing the engine from the car and all the readings on past postings really helped. The thing is heavier than I thought and it is only a small block without heads and manifolds mounted. I wonder what it might weight if it is a BB or HEMI. The driver side motor mount failed some time ago and the k frame dropped off to one side when I unbolted it. Glad it did not happen when I was driving it. I wonder if that could had been causing the noise that I thought was coming from the lifters or pushrods.

I will be doing lots of cleaning and degreasing first and then rebuild the front suspension while I think about what to do with the engine (SB stroker sounds good). Still have not decided to rebuilt the Mopar stock suspension or go with aftermarket like Magnum Force ($$$).
Title: Re: NorCal 73 Challenger
Post by: 7212Mopar on March 06, 2016 - 09:33:53 pm
I decided to stay with the torsion bar suspension a few weeks back and started rebuilding the front suspension after some more readings and watching YouTube videos. The K frame took most of the time and I probably removed at least a pound of grease and pebbles. I don't have a big compressor or sandblaster so mostly done with the grinder and wire wheel. The k frame was not easy to weld because the grease that got left behind started burning. Also went with the Hotchkis front sway bar. It is 1.25" hollow design and does not weight that much. A very well made piece wit ha nice finish.

Next will be to prepped the ball joints, knuckles, pitman and idler arms for more assembly. After that, going to get the new Borgeson box and do the bearing upgrade at the steering column.
Title: Re: NorCal 73 Challenger
Post by: dodj on March 13, 2016 - 07:52:57 am
Looking good.  :2thumbs:
Where did you get the strut rods?
Title: Re: NorCal 73 Challenger
Post by: 7212Mopar on March 13, 2016 - 01:13:15 pm
Thanks. The strut rods are QA1 from Summit. Free shipping delivered in 2 days.
Title: Re: NorCal 73 Challenger
Post by: 7212Mopar on August 12, 2016 - 02:53:01 am
I am on vacation this week down at southern California with my family. Yesterday was shopping day for the wife so I dropped her off and went to see my future engine builder with my son just about another hour drive away. We talked for about half an hour and I told him what I am looking for, also got some good feedback. I think we have a good plan but all depends on the condition of my block. I will need to make another trip in October to drop off my 340 block and my other parts that can be reused. So almost a year after I pull the engine out, I have a real solid path forward.

The build will be a 4 inch stroked 340 with hydraulic rollers valve train, should be somewhere around 475 to 500 HP. My builder is suggesting 4.25 inch stroker kit but I need to think about this. I was planning to get a TCI built 727 but my builder suggested to rebuild my 904 instead. He is using a 904 in his car and supposed can be built just as strong as a 727 but lighter and less loss in power.

Title: Re: NorCal 73 Challenger
Post by: YellowThumper on August 16, 2016 - 11:03:56 pm
I am in SoCal myself. Do you mind stating who the builder is? I am a while out for mine but am always looking for trusted sources for my 74.

Thanks
Mike
Title: Re: NorCal 73 Challenger
Post by: 7212Mopar on August 17, 2016 - 12:41:45 am
I am going with Brian at IMMENGINES to build my SB stroker. He is at Indio Ca. I spoke with many people and could not find a Mopar engine builder up here at Northern California.
Title: Re: NorCal 73 Challenger
Post by: gleasmja on August 17, 2016 - 01:05:26 am
I used him for my 340 build to. Basic rebuild and pulled good numbers on the dyno.  Couldn't ask for a better builder in my opinion.  You're in good hands.

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

Title: Re: NorCal 73 Challenger
Post by: Topcat on August 17, 2016 - 01:10:10 am
There's a few good builders out in the farm country up here but they aren't high production shops.
Title: Re: NorCal 73 Challenger
Post by: YellowThumper on August 17, 2016 - 01:40:46 am
Cool, thanks.
Title: Re: NorCal 73 Challenger
Post by: 7212Mopar on August 17, 2016 - 02:02:23 am
I used him for my 340 build to. Basic rebuild and pulled good numbers on the dyno.  Couldn't ask for a better builder in my opinion.  You're in good hands.

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
Thanks. That is good to know. I read a lot of good things about the shop and wanted to check it out in person. Brian is also very informative and pleasant to talk to. I am looking forward to drive down there in October.
Title: Re: NorCal 73 Challenger
Post by: 7212Mopar on October 29, 2016 - 10:01:24 pm
I dropped off my engine block and transmission to my builder last week. It was a 1000 miles round trip same day and my back hurts from all the driving. Got good news last night that the sonic test of my 4.07 bore block is good and the thinnest spot is about a half dollar at .168 at the non thrust side. I don't have all the readings or how much over bore needed but he said is good to go. I will get more details and cost next week since there were several options being considered. Goal is 91 octane street driven 500 HP build.
Title: Re: NorCal 73 Challenger
Post by: Rolling_Thunder on October 30, 2016 - 10:58:20 am
Brian is a good dude...    im from SoCal myself so I have used a few builders around....    some good....    some not so good.
Title: Re: NorCal 73 Challenger
Post by: 7212Mopar on November 04, 2016 - 12:12:56 am
I got the engine pricing sheet today and my builder will be going with the Scat 4" forged stroker kit, Speedmaster CNC heads with his custom porting, custom grind roller cam. I had my mind set on the Hughes roller rocker arm kit but my builder recommend the PRW stainless rockers instead. Any body has good Experience? I searched the forum and looks like several members using it on the BB build.
Title: Re: NorCal 73 Challenger
Post by: dodj on November 04, 2016 - 06:41:18 am
I am using the PRW's because of CP's and Strawdawgs recommendations. I have no complaints. Been on for two summers. IMO, much stronger than the often 'cooler' looking aluminium pieces.
Twalker had clearance issues with Trick Flow heads. :2cents:
No problems with my 440 source Stealth heads.
Title: Re: NorCal 73 Challenger
Post by: Challenger in NC on November 04, 2016 - 12:22:43 pm
I decided to stay with the torsion bar suspension a few weeks back and started rebuilding the front suspension after some more readings and watching YouTube videos. The K frame took most of the time and I probably removed at least a pound of grease and pebbles. I don't have a big compressor or sandblaster so mostly done with the grinder and wire wheel. The k frame was not easy to weld because the grease that got left behind started burning. Also went with the Hotchkis front sway bar. It is 1.25" hollow design and does not weight that much. A very well made piece wit ha nice finish.

Next will be to prepped the ball joints, knuckles, pitman and idler arms for more assembly. After that, going to get the new Borgeson box and do the bearing upgrade at the steering column.

Car looks great, nice job on the suspension rebuild.

This past week, I was thinking of building an engine/trans dolly similar to the piece you built. It looks like you connected two furniture dollies together which is the route I was considering. I'd like to mount the engine, K-frame and trans as one unit so that it can eventually be slid underneath the car. How did you end up supporting the K-frame on your piece? The unit from US CarTool is nice but cant justify $400 for it when I have so many other expenses with the car.
Title: Re: NorCal 73 Challenger
Post by: 7212Mopar on November 04, 2016 - 03:01:19 pm
This is what I had done so far. I bought some 3/4" threaded rods, large washers and bolts from hardware store. I then measured the K frame bolt holes and made some short slots at the 2x6 and 2x4 to mount the threaded rods. I then placed the finished K frame on the threaded rods so that it stay put. I have not place the engine on the K frame so not sure if the assembly will hold up. I will find out early next year when I get my engine back.
Title: Re: NorCal 73 Challenger
Post by: 7212Mopar on November 04, 2016 - 03:04:46 pm
I will get some pictures later tonight when I get home. The pictures I have now don't show the modification I made.
Title: Re: NorCal 73 Challenger
Post by: 7212Mopar on November 07, 2016 - 12:11:57 am
Car looks great, nice job on the suspension rebuild.

This past week, I was thinking of building an engine/trans dolly similar to the piece you built. It looks like you connected two furniture dollies together which is the route I was considering. I'd like to mount the engine, K-frame and trans as one unit so that it can eventually be slid underneath the car. How did you end up supporting the K-frame on your piece? The unit from US CarTool is nice but cant justify $400 for it when I have so many other expenses with the car.

I added the rods with washers to elevate and balance the K frame slightly. I assume will need some blocking to support the trans.
Title: Re: NorCal 73 Challenger
Post by: Challenger in NC on November 18, 2016 - 09:14:50 pm
I added the rods with washers to elevate and balance the K frame slightly. I assume will need some blocking to support the trans.

Nice job.
Title: Re: NorCal 73 Challenger
Post by: 7212Mopar on December 29, 2016 - 09:49:59 pm
Engine and trans are still at the builder. Sonic testing and magnaflux of the block both checked out good. He is working on the block this week so hopefully will find out how much is needed to bore out and the final displacement.

Been keeping myself busy working the underside of the car. Previous owner lives in the farm country and he has a dirt road from the street leading to his house. Although he only driven the car about 7000 miles in the ten years he had the car, there is still a lot of mud built up on the underside. I got most of the stuffs removed now so tomorrow will finish removing the fuel and brake lines and then power wash the muds off.

Upon close inspection, all underside sheet metal and frame rails are in great shape. I can still see the factory paint at the trans tunnel and at the top side of the fuel tank. The car's odometer reads a little under 61,000 miles and it is possible that it has not yet turn over.

I bought a chassis coating kit from Summit and will refresh the underside to preserve the sheet metal. It will not be factory correct but is something that I can do by myself. Engine bay is factory painted and mostly ok. I will touch up with paint only and no black out for me.
Title: Re: NorCal 73 Challenger
Post by: 7212Mopar on December 29, 2016 - 10:01:57 pm
Also been working on other stuffs while waiting for engine and trans. I did the rear sway bar bracket modification other reading some prior posting on site. The mod added 3/16" to the height due to the additional bracket that I added so hopefully sway bar will still mount ok. I drilled and threaded the brackets for 7/16" studs (bolts with heads cut off) and then welded the back side. The welds were then grind down flat. It should still be ok because the studs were about 3/32" down when I welded them. Also the studs are still threaded in the brackets.

Rear end housing is cleaned. Need to clean up the axles. Bearings seems fine and not loose. The 3.23 sure grip looks like in good shape. Need to decide on the rear disc setup before assembly.
Title: Re: NorCal 73 Challenger
Post by: 7212Mopar on February 01, 2017 - 12:55:36 am
Got a few more things done. Added a leaf taken from old springs to the Mopar XHD springs I have. Will see how it looks when put back together. Also installed the steering shaft bearing many on here had done. It feels good and no wobble, highly recommended. The Borgeson box had arrived and mocked up on the k frame. The angle of the box is really aim toward the driver side. It got me concern a little but looks like it was designed like that after some reading over the internet. I also bought the RPM coating for bare metal. It is easy to use but have to wait if it really works. Also got the Dr. Diff 11.7" rear disc brakes installed. I like the look of it going with the YO Rallye. Still waiting for the brake lines and the front brakes to show up. The front setup is the one I worry about because of the diameter clearance is tight, finger crossed. No news from the engine builder. Likely busy at work this time of the year. I do have a few months before the Mopar show in June. I still have to paint the bottom of the car before putting things back on the car.
Title: Re: NorCal 73 Challenger
Post by: 7212Mopar on February 12, 2017 - 09:01:04 pm
Finally finish refreshing the underside of my car. There were lots of caked on mud and I had to power wash with hot water twice. There were some minor surface rust and were brush cleaned and then  rust encapsulated. I ended up using a combination of brushed on coating and then finish with spray on undercoating (6 cans) where there were undercoating from factory originally. The original undercoating was mostly in good shape with just a few chips but need to be brighten up. This turned out to be a messy job working and painting on your back. The whole thing took a few weekends to get this done and ruined my eyeglasses in the process. It is also difficult to get it off your face. I recommend a full head mask in addition to the respirator if anyone is thinking about this. Next week I will move on to taking out the master cylinder and booster to make ready for the hydroboost system. The engine compartment will also need some paint touch up. After that I should be able to start reassembly like installing fuel and brake lines, gas tank and rear differential. Engine and trans might be at least another month out. Engine builders are busy like crazy this time of the year.
Title: Re: NorCal 73 Challenger
Post by: 7212Mopar on March 29, 2017 - 03:16:38 am
My engine is being assembled. Here are a few I received last week. Can't wait to see the dyno video
Title: Re: NorCal 73 Challenger
Post by: YellowThumper on March 29, 2017 - 09:18:36 pm
 :2thumbs: :working:
Title: Re: NorCal 73 Challenger
Post by: 7212Mopar on April 04, 2017 - 01:05:16 am
Got news today that the engine is done. Builder said it runs strong, easy to start. Video sounds awesome. Dyno numbers came slightly under target at 491 HP and 528 TQ. I have no compliant and quite delighted to see this part done. Engine is painted HEMI Orange which I prefer over the Blue. Trans will be done this week so probably both get ship  sometime next week. Rear end, brake line, fuel line and gas tank installed. Still got a few things under the hood and front brakes, hydroboost, steering, upper control arms to install. Very busy at work and hard to find enough time to work on the car. Likely will not make the annual Mopar show in June.
Title: Re: NorCal 73 Challenger
Post by: 7212Mopar on April 04, 2017 - 01:07:28 am
Here is the video to the dyno run. I like the sound. Wonder how it ends up sounding with the TTI headers and 2.5" X pipe exhaust system. Both are 5 weeks out.

https://youtu.be/InAXR7aZQ0w
Title: Re: NorCal 73 Challenger
Post by: YellowThumper on April 05, 2017 - 07:27:31 pm
 :thumbsup:  :burnout:
Title: Re: NorCal 73 Challenger
Post by: gleasmja on April 06, 2017 - 12:12:04 am
I know that dyno room!   Great guys up there.  IMM

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

Title: Re: NorCal 73 Challenger
Post by: 7212Mopar on April 19, 2017 - 12:47:04 am
My TTI coated headers and exhaust system arrived today. My last set of headers (Headman uncoated) was purchased back in 1980. The TTI is so much better. All the welds are nice and smooth and the flanges are straight as an arrow. The exhaust pipes are nicely done as well. Even the rear hangers have all the sharp edges grind down. This is what I call superior craftsmanship. I have not seen this level of work in a product for a very long time. You can tell someone really spent the time to put it all together. This is my impression going through the stuff in the boxes and just want to share my experience. I better be extra careful not to damage anything when I install this. If their exhaust tips is not so expensive, I would get from them too. The tips I got elsewhere I am not impress at all. Will see how it looks when I put it together.
Title: Re: NorCal 73 Challenger
Post by: 7212Mopar on August 07, 2017 - 12:39:40 am
Got a few more things done. Installed aftermarket stereo with front and back speakers. Fab front speaker mounts out of large washers for the tweeters. Clean up under dash wiring and remove car alarm installed by previous owner. Did the bypass to amp meter. Managed to scratch the wood grain of the instrument panel again and require more repair.

I tried to mount the engine over the k frame tonight but failed. It is getting late and I gave up, needing rest for the long week ahead. I  am using an Milodon road race pan and both sides hit the k frame brackets for the motor mounts. The oil pan was designed to clear that but because of the variation in K frame tolerances, mine did not clear. More grinding surgery and paint will be needed before second attempt.
Title: Re: NorCal 73 Challenger
Post by: 7212Mopar on August 19, 2017 - 02:48:16 am
After some grinding of the k frame, finally able to lower the engine on to the K frame. Next will be prepping the trans and converter mating to the engine.

I cannot recall if the engine mount is supposed to be sitting on the K frame. If I lower the engine all the way, the bolts won't go in. Right now looks like about 5/16" of a gap. The PS is slightly more. Can anyone tell me if this is normal or I did something wrong?
Title: Re: NorCal 73 Challenger
Post by: 70chall440 on August 19, 2017 - 12:04:24 pm
Yes the mount should be laying on the frame pad.
Title: Re: NorCal 73 Challenger
Post by: 7212Mopar on August 20, 2017 - 03:39:11 pm
The mounting holes of the new Magnum mounts were indexed different from the stock mounts. They are located further away from the engine. When lowered all the way down, the holes don't line up with the K frame forming sort of a flat ellipse instead of a circle. The through bolts cannot be inserted. Just poorly manufactured product with thinner materials. Not sure if they were made oversea. Time to get some new Schumacher mounts.
Title: Re: NorCal 73 Challenger
Post by: YellowThumper on August 20, 2017 - 11:18:01 pm
Really hate when remanufactured part are almost good enough....
Leaving the installer to do their "engineering".