Wipers reverse but dont park

[shadango]

Here is more info on how that cam assembly works based on what I noodled....

The MAIN part in the cam assembly is the SPRING.   It is responsible for grabbing at first to rotate the cam around to lengthen or shorten the arm so it can park /wipe as needed.

When the motor gets turned on, the cam assembly starts rotating with the crank...initially (from a park position) it travels a short distance with the spring riding on the shaft tightly which rotates the cam plastic pieces.  When it all reaches the end of the designed travel range, the linkage length has been changed to allow wiping, and the spring then opens a bit to allow the shaft to rotate in forward  mode freely.......this stays this way while they are on.

When you turn off the wipers, the motor immediately rotates in the opposite direction..... the crank shaft obviously reverses direction as well. It again travels a short distance with the spring riding on it tightly which rotates the cam plastic pieces again, changing the length of the wiper linkage, allowing the wipers to come into park position.

The spring on mine was worn and the shaft was as well.....that means that when the little inner block on the cam plastic parts would push against the spring, it would just rotate, which means the cam would not rotate which in turn means the eccentric cam didnt move which then means the linkage didnt change length to park.

With the new spring installed, it grabs the shaft of the crank lever tightly at first so the cam rotates.....then as the innards reach their end of range, the spring loosens up so the shaft can rotate freely.

Its a neat design if not the most mechanically long lasting...I can see how over time the spring and shaft will wear , leading to slippage and then a non-park situation.

As noted above, I had wrapped one layer of electrical tape around the shaft and reassembled and things started working better.....so I knew I was on the right path.

If someone could figure out a way to slide some sort of bushing over the shaft to effectively tighten the spring and shaft fit that might work.

[73440]

Now, who has info on what exactly to do as far as tweaking the SS trim to fit flush with the windshield??  If I could get rid of the interference there, I could say its 100% fixed!    Its 98% now....LOL

Could it be excess sealant holding it above the windshield?

[1 Wild R/T]

Now, who has info on what exactly to do as far as tweaking the SS trim to fit flush with the windshield??  If I could get rid of the interference there, I could say its 100% fixed!    Its 98% now....LOL

I just watched the last video paying attention to the trim....... In the video it looks to me like your trim all around doesn't fit tight to the windshield.... I'm talking about the two upper pieces as well as the lower trim....  If that is in fact the case then I think your problem might be the wrong Butyl Glass Setting Tape, it comes in three thicknesses & if you use the wrong one the glass sits deeper in the opening & the trim doesn't fit properly...

On the same thought, standard Mopar butyl glass setting tape is 5/16" but if your using new aftermarket glass thats thinner than the original glass you use 3/8" tape to bring the glass up to stock height...

[shadango]

In the video it looks to me like your trim all around doesn't fit tight to the windshield.... I'm talking about the two upper pieces as well as the lower trim....

Yeah that could be.

The windshield was in the car when I got it......I guess I am stuck with it as is unless I get a brick thrown through it at a car show...LOL

I was wondering if the SS trim at the base could be tweaked enough to make it better.....

[1 Wild R/T]

Windshields if installed with the butyl tape are easy to remove & reinstall....  Pop the trim & cut it out with piano wire..... 30 minutes.... clean out the old butyl & apply new all done in less than two hours & $30.....  If the windshield got glued in with urethane all bets are off.... Expect to be buying new glass....

[shadango]

Windshields if installed with the butyl tape are easy to remove & reinstall....  Pop the trim & cut it out with piano wire..... 30 minutes.... clean out the old butyl & apply new all done in less than two hours & $30.....  If the windshield got glued in with urethane all bets are off.... Expect to be buying new glass....

I guess one could pop the trim and see if there is tape versus the goo?

If I were to get around to having the shield popped for that, I would get a new one.....mine has some light scratches etc.....would also do a new dash pad while it was out....

But those are just pipe dreams.......LOL

[GoodysGotaCuda]

 I have brand new glass, correct thickness butyl and brand new AMD trim and it does not sit tight on the glass.

I may end up lightly bonding the trim to the glass if I find I need to.


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[71cuda#match]

I tested my motor as the manual says, and the motor reverses fine.  But when I operate the wipers from the switch, and turn the wipers off, they just stop wherever they are at the time.   I have to wait until they are at the bottom to turn them off.  Annoying!

[shadango]

I tested my motor as the manual says, and the motor reverses fine.  But when I operate the wipers from the switch, and turn the wipers off, they just stop wherever they are at the time.   I have to wait until they are at the bottom to turn them off.  Annoying!

So do the wipers ever change direction or do the wipers ALWAYS immediately stop when you turn the switch off?

If its the first, could just be the cam assembly as was my case -- it would do that sometimes.

If the latter, and the motor checks out when bypassing the switch I would guess either the switch is bad or the switch isnt finding a good ground.....I am told the switch has to see a good ground to park.

I ran a seperate wire from the mounting lug on the metal switch mounting frame to the firewall.  That didnt cure my issue at the time --- my cam assembly ---and most importantly the spring in it --- was bad.

[cv70chall]

That's exactly what mine do...stop where ever you turn off the switch.
What's involved in removing/ fixing the cam itself?
(I remember installing these during my resto, but it was 5 years ago and my memory sucks....Lol

[shadango]

That's exactly what mine do...stop where ever you turn off the switch.
What's involved in removing/ fixing the cam itself?
(I remember installing these during my resto, but it was 5 years ago and my memory sucks....Lol

SOrry for the delay....not receiving email updates and havent visited the forum lately due to work.

Its not hard really.

One bolt at the crank on the motor, 3 bolts on the drivers side wiper pivot (at the windshield)...

Then I reach in to the passenger side linkage and unclip the "drive" linkage from the pivot assembly...you can also remove the three bolts on the passenger side pivot assembly and remove the whole thing instead....thats what I did the first 30 times....lol...then realized I didnt have to do that.

Once the whole linkage is out of the car, the boot (if you have one) is removed, then a clip on the cam assembly comes off and it all comes apart easy.

I had pictures up but the photo bucket debacle screwed that up.....lots of info in this thread to help you though.

Hardest part was finding the parts.