Barracuda Challenger Forum

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Think of it this way, you have to sub-structure (frame and floor) and the super-structure (outer skins like the quarters, Dutchman panel, etc) (BTW these are my terms, not industry official terms); I would recommend you leave as much of the super structure in place as possible and repair the sub-structure at least to a point that it can take a load. The frame rails along with the trunk floor serve as the foundation for the rest, therefore you need to get that in and located, and if possible secured strongly. After that, you can build up and out (wheel houses, trunk lid hinge supports, Dutchman panel, quarters, taillight panel, trunk extensions, rear valance (fitting it).

I am pretty sure this feels a bit overwhelming (I feel overwhelmed looking at the pictures), but you have come this far and are doing an excellent job. Again, these cars were not well constructed when new, with the focus you have and the attention to detail you are applying, this car will be constructed better than when it was first built.

I am pretty adventurous when it comes to cars and the work load I would take on, but I am not sure I would have taken on this project. That said, I am very impressed with what you have done thus far and the hobby will be better because you have saved this car. Yes, it is going to absorb money like a sponge, they all do, but in the end no one will believe what you started with and what you achieved. You definitely "got this" and will forever be able to look at the car and know "I did it". Throwing a drive train into one of these along with an interior and perhaps paint is childs play compared to what you are doing, you are truly "building" a complete car. Hang in there and continue to take it slowly and methodically, it will turn out just fine.
Accurate observations and good advice! Using the rear floor pan as a template, you should be able to get the rails in and pretty close to where you want them in conjunction with your previous measurements and a support across their back ends to prevent sag. I'd lightly tack them and toss in the floor and clamp the extensions on temporarily so that you can get the whlhses in and then the 1/4's. If you're saving the inr whlhses they'll give you a further guide to hang the tin and you can always cut them out later should you so desire. Leaving the upr trunk panel will also leave your trunk hinges and torque rods intact and that'll help as you put on the deck and align it to the 1/4's. If you have any vertical issues that cause pie-shaped door/qtr gaps this is where you can lower or raise the rails and trunk floor to correct that before you weld. Assemble the rear sheet metal, chase your gaps and buy stock in the Cleco and Vice-grip corporations laddie! LOL  :cheers:
Thanks...I look back to the things I could do ten years ago like drive train, disassembly and reassembly and yeah, it really seems simple now. When I started on the front end, I was gently wading in and trying not to get in over my head. Now, this set back doesn't really phase me. I just see it as more time and labor.

Im gonna be optimistic and predict rear end completion before Christmas. Then I can sandblast the car and double check for any metal work that I overlooked. I have my 383 all ready to install. I'm dying to hear it run.
70 -  I am using the Hemi Gold Box, pretty cool system, lots of options and support from Mike the owner.  How do you like the FAST?  that was a consideration at one time, and which Holley?  As for the lights, I plan on using your recommendation.  I already have the brackets installed, just need to do the lights.  Thank you for the information and help.
You're killing me. Haha

I just need to take a wad of cash to the next spring fling and see what follows me home

ya, stick 10K in cash under that guys nose, and he'll probably take it!

Thats what the guy on Gas Monkey does.  Immediately flies somewhere with
up to 100,000 in cash in his pocket, and scoops some good deals!
well, yes, the hose should be connected, if you want vacuum advance to work?
Audio / Re: 70 Challenger R11 code
« Last post by 73440 on Today at 07:09:49 pm »
I'm just guessing , but seeing as R11 is the lowest powered radio at 2 watts would quess just the one speaker.
Talking to Scott Smith the carb expert.  The nipple in the front of that carb is the attachment point for the distributor vac advance hose.
Engine & Go Fast Goodies / Re: 383 engine temperature
« Last post by Racer57 on Today at 06:02:02 pm »
From what I'm understanding the higher the sustained rpm the higher the temps get. Besides what others have said... do you have a shroud ? what size/condition of the radiator ? Ignition timing ? I'm now using a 750 carb which probably took 20+ degrees off my temps from the 650 I had.
Audio / 70 Challenger R11 code
« Last post by zman426f on Today at 05:54:14 pm »
I was wondering if anyone could tell me if my 70 Challenger with the R11 Am radio code has just one center dash speaker or if it also includes the two rear speakers?
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