Author Topic: Trying to remove the play in my steering box  (Read 514 times)

Offline hooD

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Trying to remove the play in my steering box
« on: July 31, 2017 - 10:43:00 pm »
Both upper and lower ball joints on both sides were replaced.  The pitman arm was replaced too.  Front end was realigned to factory specs.
The steering is much better.  But there is some play in the steering wheel.   

I was told that if i loosened the steering box nut and turned the adjustment screw with an allen wrench CCW an eighth to a quarter turn it may help.
Is this how it's done? 
-Larry
member since AUG 2007
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NvrWiLgDm7Y

southeastern michigan usa
             
 
            
1973 'CUDA 340
 
original owner
37,117 miles
  
:grinyes: *click my E-Body* :grinyes:




Offline Bullitt-

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Re: Trying to remove the play in my steering box
« Reply #1 on: August 01, 2017 - 12:17:50 am »
Hey Larry  :wave:
Check that the coupler is not sloppy as well... Here's a how to...mine has a flat blade screw rather than hex.
   Scroll down to "Lash Bash"
http://www.allpar.com/history/mopar/steeroids.html
Wade  73 Rallye 340..'77 Millennium Falcon...13 R/T Classic   Huntsville, AL
Screwed by Photobucket!

Offline Mopar Mitch

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Re: Trying to remove the play in my steering box
« Reply #2 on: August 01, 2017 - 04:50:15 pm »
Richard E-berg has written great articles!
Autocross/road racers go in deeper... and come out harder!

See  MOPAR ACTION MAGAZINE, AUGUST 2006 ISSUE for featured article and details on my autocross T/A.


Offline Katfish

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Re: Trying to remove the play in my steering box
« Reply #3 on: August 01, 2017 - 07:31:28 pm »
Richard E-berg has written great articles!

So true, I really miss Mopar Action, other mags seem like nothing more than sales brochures with little to add in the way of tech.

Offline Those

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Re: Trying to remove the play in my steering box
« Reply #4 on: August 01, 2017 - 07:48:37 pm »
I thought it was clockwise to tighten?

Offline hooD

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Re: Trying to remove the play in my steering box
« Reply #5 on: August 10, 2017 - 12:36:38 am »
Hey Larry  :wave:
Check that the coupler is not sloppy as well... Here's a how to...mine has a flat blade screw rather than hex.
   Scroll down to "Lash Bash"
http://www.allpar.com/history/mopar/steeroids.html


Wade....
I read the article, very informative. Let me recap to be sure I try to do this right the first time.
1. Front tires off the ground
2. Engine idling...loosen the adjusting nut
3. Steering wheel and tires at 12 o'clock....check coupler for 12 o'clock alignment
4. Rock or rotate the coupler by hand back and forth
5. Observe the pitman arm movement
6. Tighten the adjuster screw to achieve positive or
ever so slight movement in pitman arm
7. Tighten the locking nut

So, to tighten the screw, it is turned CW not CCW...right?
If I  have the procedure above correct, I will attempt this soon and update my results.
-Larry
member since AUG 2007
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NvrWiLgDm7Y

southeastern michigan usa
             
 
            
1973 'CUDA 340
 
original owner
37,117 miles
  
:grinyes: *click my E-Body* :grinyes:

Offline Bullitt-

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Re: Trying to remove the play in my steering box
« Reply #6 on: August 10, 2017 - 08:28:55 am »
Seems pretty straightforward other than some poor grammar at the beginning stating "keep the wheels on the ground up"
Apparently they want the wheels off the ground which makes sense I suppose.
& yes to tighten the screw would be clockwise to remove slop
Wade  73 Rallye 340..'77 Millennium Falcon...13 R/T Classic   Huntsville, AL
Screwed by Photobucket!

Offline john h

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Re: Trying to remove the play in my steering box
« Reply #7 on: September 21, 2017 - 01:47:58 pm »
I ran across this thread just looking around the web site.  I have all new suspension and steering parts in my front end and QA1 adjustable shocks.  After having the alignment done, I was still surprised how much the car wanders.  I have added the shim to the power steering valve and that really helped the feel of the steering but like the article states, I just assumed all these cars had sloppy steering.  I completed the steps in the article last nigh.  I am very surprised and happy with the results.  I feel like my steering box may be more than well worn because I have the hex nut cranked in so much that I don't think there is much left to tighten but now I have very, very little slop in my wheel. I'm amazed.  Thanks for posting this article! 

John
John
73 Cuda
360 Crate motor
FiTech Fuel injection
727 Trans (wishing it had Over Drive)

Offline Aracer

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Re: Trying to remove the play in my steering box
« Reply #8 on: September 21, 2017 - 06:18:16 pm »
Turn the wheel a 1/4 turn either way then tighten the set screw, It will have a "feel" when it seems binding. The reason for the 1/4 turn is that it makes play when the box is turned. It's tighter between the teeth, when pointed straight ahead.
        1968 cuda has junk yard 16:1 old aluminum box, it is maxed out down to where the screw head slot is even with the set nut. It needs to be rebuilt the next time it gets loose. I have the Flaming R. u- joint conversion. Now, on an Abody that thing takes OUT all the fore and aft movement, that will be needed for a wreck to bring it to the side safely. I would not recommend it.
       In the case of the collapsible spring loaded steering shaft on the 1974, the u- joint conversion is perfect. This heavy 440 car uses the Flaming R. iron 16:1  manual box. Man, those FlamingR's have gone up +30% since I bought. Even the new box needed a half turn to take out the play after a year. The best box is that original power steering 16:1. I have the Mopar factory rebuilt one I had to exchange after driving down Jack London's Glen Ellen, Ca. hill in 1974, with out the motor on, that damaged it, and gained much too play. Power box is eventually going back in; and I will get my money for the Fl,River box on Ebay.   It's insane, the amount of strength to park that car now. Wife can't do it. Good for going straight at the track without an extra belt to suck power.