Recent Posts

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Electrical / Re: Misc Electrical questions,,,,
« Last post by 69CHARGERMD on Today at 07:06:18 am »
Thanks guys for the replys.
1) I will get some ground straps for the dash frame,,,,i have a test light,,,,
2) Mercury switch in the trunk light ? ( do these go bad ?? ) ( i will also make sure it is grounded properly )
3) Brake lights, tail lights, headlights, running lights all work,,,( except the side marker lights on the back quarter panels ? )
Thanks for the above info,,,this gives me some things to work on
Doug ;)
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Newb Intros / Re: '73 barracuda base - ressurection
« Last post by Beekeeper on Today at 03:27:05 am »
Ok - that's what I thought though this is not exactly a restoration - well, not on purpose anyway.   The more I dig the more I replace - sound familiar ?   I had a thought earlier today; wonder if a set of modern challenger bucket seats and console will fit in this car?

Yeah someone called it project creep and they weren't kidding! The more I dug into it, the more rust I found. If I had it to do over again, I'd have braced the roof up at the A pillars and removed the entire upper lower cowl with hinge pillars. Then put all the new ones together away from the car and install as a completed subassembly back into the car.
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Tools And Equipment / Re: Frame rack ideas
« Last post by Beekeeper on Today at 03:18:40 am »
You're building a laser powered, computer controlled, electro-pneumatic flyswatter to kill flies IMHO. If this is all over repairing the rot in the back of your car, please give some thought to the fact that you repaired the front, which is much more critical- without such a device. The rear is not as "fussy" as the front and all you need to do is block the car on stands, make your measurements both before and after and support the rails. Everything runs off the rails and your previous method of hanging the tin, fitting and then welding will stand you in good stead while doing the rear as well. At the end of the day, you'll do whatever the hell you want to, but you're making an onerous job ever more complicated. Sorry, just my  :2cents:

Actually, I abandoned this idea days after my post because I kind of came to a similar conclusion. I need to update my other post but I've made good progress on the back end already.

I thought the rack looked cool and the idea of having something on wheels seemed appealing. I am going to build a rotisserie though for the car. Very soon, I will have need of it for the sandblasting and final metal detail work all around the car.
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i wouldn't mind having it but the shipping to west coast would probably break the bank. I sent an air cleaner out your way last month and the shipping was over $50.00.

Put it in a 5 gallon pail & take it to Greyhound....  You'd have to pick it up at a Greyhound depot but it's pretty cheap.....  Also Fastenal store to store shipping is pretty good...
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Ebod Pics / Re: Flickr Photo Of The Day!
« Last post by AARCuda340+6 on Today at 12:44:06 am »

October 21st/2017

1970 Plymouth 'Cuda.   Wish the picture was a little bigger.


https://www.flickr.com/photos/157648469@N08/37549996900/

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my view is let it cool overnight, then drain oil. That way
all the dirt that is suspended in the oil that clings to parts,
cyl walls, etc, will go down to pan. Then let pan drain till not a drop
comes out. Then I throw in a cup of oil for a final washout of the pan.

If you drain when hot/warm, a lot of dirt will not have made it to pan.
Not advisable or recommended, the impurities drop out of the oil and stick to anything they were last on especially a sump, that is what all the sediment that accumulates on the bottom of the sump and needs to be scraped out. Hot oil changes remove the sediment leaving less in the sump.
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Tools And Equipment / Re: Frame rack ideas
« Last post by jimynick on October 20, 2017 - 11:36:52 pm »
You're building a laser powered, computer controlled, electro-pneumatic flyswatter to kill flies IMHO. If this is all over repairing the rot in the back of your car, please give some thought to the fact that you repaired the front, which is much more critical- without such a device. The rear is not as "fussy" as the front and all you need to do is block the car on stands, make your measurements both before and after and support the rails. Everything runs off the rails and your previous method of hanging the tin, fitting and then welding will stand you in good stead while doing the rear as well. At the end of the day, you'll do whatever the hell you want to, but you're making an onerous job ever more complicated. Sorry, just my  :2cents:
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Electrical / Re: Challenger Headlight Questions!
« Last post by jimynick on October 20, 2017 - 11:27:54 pm »
Like 73440 said, the outer headlight has both high and low capability with the inner one only coming on when the lights are switched to high, so you can pull the inner ones, but it'll make things more interesting if you drive the car at night. That's why the Cuda lights are 7" and the Challenger ones 5".  :cheers:
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Electrical / Re: Challenger Headlight Questions!
« Last post by 340-FOUR- BARRELL on October 20, 2017 - 11:14:42 pm »
Here's a better picture.
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Newb Intros / Re: '73 barracuda base - ressurection
« Last post by lostdog on October 20, 2017 - 11:11:26 pm »
On the main forum page, there is a main heading about restoration projects by Roseville.

Ok - that's what I thought though this is not exactly a restoration - well, not on purpose anyway.   The more I dig the more I replace - sound familiar ?   I had a thought earlier today; wonder if a set of modern challenger bucket seats and console will fit in this car?
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