A833 pivot arm travel

[70chall440]

Does anyone know how far the pivot arm travels from clutch not engaged (as in foot off the pedal) to clutch engaged (as in foot on the pedal and the pedal depressed)?

[dodj]

By pivot arm, are you talking about the clutch fork?

[70chall440]

Yes

[jhaag]

I see no one answered this question. I can't answer it either, but curious as to why you are asking?

[jimynick]

Mike, where were you meaning from? The inner face where the throwout bearing clips in or the outer end where the adjusting rod goes through?

[70chall440]

I am referring to the distance the pivot arm moves from just off the pressure plate to full engagement. I was asking because I am running a hydraulic clutch system that I fabricated. It uses a Wilwood master cylinder connected to the clutch pedal via an adjustable rod and a slave cylinder down on the trans. You push the clutch and it depresses the piston in the MC which in turn forces fluid into the slave cylinder pulling (in my case) a rod that is attached to the pivot arm.

I was having some issues getting enough clearance and enough pressure plate engagement. I have overcome this for now by removing a stop I built and now it works adequately.

[jhaag]

You have any pics of your install? I did the same thing and am struggling with disengagement as well as high pedal effort.

[70chall440]

Here is a pic of the slave cylinder. I will have to look for other pictures (I know I have). I am running a Wilwood MC connected to the pedal by a rod. This MC pushes fluid to the slave cylinder which in turn pulls the pivot arm. I recently discovered a couple of things, first was that I did not have enough pedal travel to fully engage/move the slave/pivot arm. So I removed the stop I had made completely and now I have a significant amount more of pedal travel and disengagement but still not enough IMO. The second thing I discovered was that due to the angle of my rod coming off of the pedal I really was at a mechanical disadvantage; meaning that I have to have the clutch pedal adjusted to the top (as in near the dash) in order to get enough travel of the rod to activate the slave cylinder.

My intention is to modify the arm with a pivot arm coming off of it so that pressure is applied to the rod in a "straight in" angle for a longer period of time. See the attached picture of the pedals, this is off another car but you can see the lever on the clutch pedal that demonstrates what I am talking about.

[jhaag]

Thanks I am using a similar setup. I have a borg and beck 3 finger PP, so I am going to reinstall the overcenter spring and rebleed the system and see what happens.

[70chall440]

I am using a diagram style PP but I need more travel of the pedal/rod to get the TB and PP to over center for ease of holding the clutch.

[jhaag]

Have you thought about drilling a hole closer to the TB end, and connecting there? Would increase mechanical advantage, and increase fork travel on TB end, but also pedal effort.

[70chall440]

I did think of that but I wanted to keep the mechanical advantage on the arm and the pivot ball aspect. I haven't dug too deep into it yet, weather has turned to crap here (cold and snow) and I am neck deep into fixing some things on one of my trucks (01 Ram 4x4). I will get back to it relatively soon. I intend to use the same system on my 70 Road Runner.