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There are a number of ways to "improve" the handling, Hotchkiss one of them. Personally, I went with huge torsion bars, stage III box, (pretty much all of their stuff for an E body) from Firm Feel in my Cuda. The car isnt driving yet so I cannot say how good or bad it will handle but I can tell you that the car is super stiff. I have full length sub frame connectors, apron bracing, lower radiator support is a solid piece as well.

Improving the suspension is a relative issue and depends on what you want. Of course it is also relative to how much you are willing to spend. There are a number of people road racing Mopars with stock style suspension and there are people with the latest and greatest.

All I would say is do your research (as you appear to be doing), talk to people running various systems and in the end get what you think will do the job. Pop over to Pro touring Mopar and look at some of the builds there.
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I will be using plastic as well with buytl tape holding it in place. I have huhsmat on the door already so it isn't really about the sound, but I feel there should be something in there.
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I chose the plastic because I figured that it was flexible for getting back into the door.  I've learned that I seldom do things only once. :bigsmile:
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TVS and chassis stiffening is a great way to go and will probably meet your expectations. Combine that with a quality tire and a seat to keep your a$$ in the seat and I bet you'll enjoy it.

..my biggest problem turning is having stock seats. I want their aesthetics but they sure suck for keeping you put!

Closer to 50/50 weight distribution is pretty nice but can be difficult to do on these cars without going to lighter weight fenders/hood. Moving the battery further back can help, if you haven't done that already.

So I've been told, I'm just curious about how the ride feels on the street with the two different setups. I'd also really like to minimize body roll in hard turns, which will probably be easier with an all-aluminum 440 and at least 1.12 or 1.18 torsion bars. Is it possible to do a 1 inch drop in ride height all around with the TVS or can that only be done with coilovers? Looking to hear from people who've used one or the other or both setups.

And yes, new seats was near the top of the mod list  :lol:

I'm willing to spend the money for fiberglass or carbon fiber body panels or hood. This is going to be a loonnggg term project, but it's going to be so worth it. I don't have the car yet so I haven't yet relocated the battery to the back. 
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TVS and chassis stiffening is a great way to go and will probably meet your expectations. Combine that with a quality tire and a seat to keep your a$$ in the seat and I bet you'll enjoy it.

..my biggest problem turning is having stock seats. I want their aesthetics but they sure suck for keeping you put!

Closer to 50/50 weight distribution is pretty nice but can be difficult to do on these cars without going to lighter weight fenders/hood. Moving the battery further back can help, if you haven't done that already.
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Hey everyone, been a long while since I've been around here. Life got in the way but I'm a lot closer now to being able to buy a '70-'71 Challenger and start my build.

My goal is to make a resto mod/pro touring car that can handle very well (I intend to take it to some track events) and still give me a good ride for cruising or going around town every now and then.

I've mostly been considering what suspension setup to go with. I'm looking mostly at the Hotchkis TVS with their single adjustable shocks, a Heidts universal IRS in back, and a US Car Tool stage 3 chassis stiffening kit. But, I know there are coilover setups like the AlterKtion and there are completely new aftermarket chassis like the G-Machine, although that one requires more work to install than I really want to put in.

I'm led to believe that the Hotchkis setup generally does better with handling for less money than the coilovers, but I'm curious about how the ride quality differs between the two, and about how adjustable the coilovers are between a soft and hard ride.

Other elements of my build:

440/512 stroker, aluminum block and heads, Edelbrock Pro Flo 4 XT fuel injection

TCI 6X automatic transmission OR Silver Sport A41 Perfect Fit Kit

Borgeson Power Steering Box

Another thing I've been considering is weight distribution. I know the original all-iron big block E-bodies were extremely front-heavy, and this engine I've speced out should weigh around 430-475, which shaves over 200 pounds off the front. What else can be done in aiding weight distribution to get closer to 50-50?
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Transmission and Drivetrain / Re: A/C bypass pulley for a RV2 A/C system.
« Last post by 1 Wild R/T on June 19, 2018 - 03:28:18 pm »
Take the money you plan to spend on a "Bypass pulley" & replace your compressor clutch..... That way it'll be there when your ready to fix the A/C....  And it will solve the noise issue for now...

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=816521&cc=1078422&jsn=429
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Transmission and Drivetrain / A/C bypass pulley for a RV2 A/C system.
« Last post by dart_gt on June 19, 2018 - 03:18:10 pm »
Are these even made? i can not seem to find one on the old internet.... any help would be great . OR.... I have a bad RV2 a/c unit and the clutch pulley sequels LOUDLY after i get up to 40mph. i plan on replacing it eventually butnot for a while, maybe years. any suggestions??

Thanks!
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Electrical / Re: Live coil wire
« Last post by 70chall440 on June 19, 2018 - 01:16:24 pm »
Hey, we have all been there... I am wiring up my cuda and discovered I connected the wire from my ECU that was supposed to go to a relay to my license plate light... Fortunately I figured this out before trying to start it...

I call this "experience learning", it cannot be replicated or obtained any other way than living it.
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Yeah that is true but their door panels are designed to allow it. I think that there may be some type of thin foam like product that could be used.
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