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Engine & Go Fast Goodies / Re: 70 Challenger 318 overheating/boiling
« Last post by 734406pk on Today at 01:34:09 am »
The base timing for a '72 318 is TDC according to my manual. If the timing is off, anything is possible. Check your balancer for accuracy with a piston stop. If this engine sat for a long time with straight water in it, rust may well be the issue. You will need a strong chemical cleaner and/or back flushing. Removing a few freeze plugs can help to let out the heavy sediment, plus you can see whats inside the coolant passages. Post back your findings. Good luck!
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Most double pumpers are 4150 series carbs.... And manual choke is virtually a given.... Try Summit or Jegs....
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I guess I shoulda also mentioned the carb has a manual choke ...
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Thanks Wild (& 70), really appreciate the help; it’s a pretty noob question I know (right up there with, “which way do I turn the handle to make the window go down,” etc, ha-ha! 😳) but, I CANNOT WAIT to get back to a place and time where I can sit down at the computer and dig through all my files or do inter web searches for an hour or two at a time, the way I used to (wah-wah!  😭

I dropped the car off to a buddy (I can trust) at his family run shop and I never dreamed it’d still be there 3 weeks now for some pretty basic stuff but, when I stopped by Friday it was apparent they are getting swamped, to the point the person ordering parts, etc. just can’t keep up.  Anyway, I gotta get my car back, cruise in weather is here (it was 74^F in the Smokies foothills last couple days!!!) so I figured, “Heck LET ME get on the stick and get these parts ordered and get back out on the highway!” :burnout:  (Judas Priest playing in the background  :stirpot:

I am almost positive the 850 double pumper is less than 20 years old so, I may just roll the dice and order the 37-485 kit.

Any suggestions on where to order it from, in case the local Advanced or O’Reillys etc. doesn’t have it?

I wasnt having much luck at Year1 or Summits websites (found some Holley ‘renew’ kits but, nothing specifying fir 850 double pumper)

Man, I did not realize how not having that car in my own garage was gonna give me the heebie-jeebies and the joneses (but, 3 weeks, c’mon man!!!)

Thanks again, fellas!
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Engine & Go Fast Goodies / Re: 70 Challenger 318 overheating/boiling
« Last post by Bones54 on Today at 12:13:12 am »
That's what I'm thinking, that the passages in the coolant ports on the head are plugged. Based on how much rust and junk came out of the radiator came out, that wouldn't surprise me at all... The radiator seemed to have plenty of flow through it when I flushed it out this morning, and the fan seems to be pulling a fair amount of heat out of the fins, so I don't think the radiator is an issue. Especially since it starts to boil before the t-stat even opens up (starts purging out the overflow around 130*).  Most likely I'll pull it back out had have it cored anyway, just for peace of mind. Forgot to mention that I did do a block test on it as well, and it passed. I also have a chemical flush treatment in it that I'm going to let sit in it overnight, so we'll see if that helps out with anything.

From what I was told when I bought it, it's just a stock 318, and original 727 trans. It was rebuilt in the mid 80's due to a broken timing chain, but the owners didn't say that they put any modifications in it. I haven't checked the timing, the lady that I bought it from (2nd owner since 1972) told me that the balancer had spun slightly, and I haven't taken the time to pull #1 plug and mark where TDC actually is with a paint pen. Should be around 10*? It doesn't kick back on me at all while cranking, so it shouldn't be too far off if it is. I'll stop by the shop tomorrow and grab a timing light (my 40 year old Suntune here at the house finally gave out, and Snap-On won't warranty my old light from the early 60's   :grinno: ...)

Can the base timing cause that much of an overheat even after just a few minutes of running? What gets me is the temp difference between bank 1 and bank 2 heads. That's why I'm leading more towards a clogged passage in the one head..

Thanks!
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Newb Intros / Re: Hey from NJ
« Last post by cudamadd on February 24, 2018 - 11:01:21 pm »
Welcome thanks for stoping  bye . Ask as many questions as you need 2 .  folks here  are great  :aussie:
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Engine & Go Fast Goodies / Re: 70 Challenger 318 overheating/boiling
« Last post by 734406pk on February 24, 2018 - 11:00:55 pm »
Welcome to the site!
 Rusty/dirty coolant can clog the radiator/head gasket passages etc. Check your base timing first. Is this a stock 318?
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Engine & Go Fast Goodies / 70 Challenger 318 overheating/boiling
« Last post by Bones54 on February 24, 2018 - 08:33:22 pm »
Hey all, just joined and this is my first time posting to the forum, so be forgiving if this is in the wrong location..

Picked up my first Challenger last Saturday and almost have it on the road again, but I've got a little bit of a head scratcher. my 318 is overheating (starts to overpressurize/boil after just a few minutes of running), I'll give as much info as I can, so it'll be a long post.

I started working on the cooling system Thursday night after work (an automotive repair shop in Oregon). The PO had straight water in it, so I changed it, and at the same time put a new water pump, hoses, thermostat, radiator cap, and flushed out the radiator. The heater hose port on the w-pump was completely clogged with crusty coolant, so that wasn't a good sign.. took it for a test drive to find out it's overheating. Heater core is leaking too, but that's a separate issue. Got home, bypassed the heater core and pulled up the intake to check the passages. No blockage, so put it back down. Tried another thermostat (180*) with a hole drilled in it and used a vacuum filler to check for further leaks/fill it. None found, so filled it with 50/50. Test drive again, still boiling. Tested cap, good, and thermostat is opening. Placed a rag in front of the radiator and it stuck so I have good air flow through the fins. Water pump is pumping, and heat is being pulled out of the radiator. Used a temp gun to measure temp at various spots and found that it'll start to boil when the t-stat housing only reads about 130*.  Checked #1 and #2 cylinder temps at the front of the heads, #1 approx 177*, #2 approx 235*.

its acting like I've got air stuck in the block somewhere, based on the early boiling temp. My main question is: since the coolant was so nasty, and still looks pretty bad after changing it twice, does it sound like I've got a bunch of sediment buildup around #2 cylinder walls causing a hot spot? I'd really rather not pull the heads, but if it comes down to it, whatever.. any other ideas would be greatly appreciated, thanks!
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Evening?  I tried the Holley website to identify which rebuild kit I needed; however; as you point out, I need to figure out where I putbthen#’s I trapped years ago, just for this situation (alas, I think I left em in the car which is in a family run garage that is closed until Monday morning (I was really hoping to get the darn kit ordered today or this weekend :-/

I did not try the Holley website to purchase ...

Have a safe weekend !!!

bowl gaskets, metering plate gaskets, needles  are all pretty much interchangeable, where you get variables are accelerator pump diaphragms (15, 30 or 50cc) & body to baseplate gaskets...

If your sure it's a double pumper the Holley 37-485 covers 99% of them made in the last 20 years... The older ones had allot more variables...
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