Barracuda Challenger Forum

Author Topic: fuse box question  (Read 1000 times)

Offline 734406pk

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Re: fuse box question
« Reply #30 on: April 12, 2017 - 08:57:26 pm »
yes with key off, also I have no power to the instrument lamp fuse slot on either side, when I have no fuse in the lower left misc slot I have no gauge readings and no draw, when fuse in I have pegged high gauges and a draw

AH!... good info! I'll check the wiring diagram...
1973 Challenger 440 6 pack auto 3.91 rear
2012 Dodge Ram 3500 dually 6.7 Cummins Fleece EFI Live
1973 Challenger 318 2bbl auto 2.73 rear 22.5 mpg RIP
1970 Challenger TA 340 4bbl auto-Sold and sad
1999 Dodge Ram 3500 dually 5.9 Cummins Fleece tuned VGT-sold
1995 Kawasaki ZX1100E & still alive




Offline xtopfuel

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Re: fuse box question
« Reply #31 on: April 13, 2017 - 05:02:24 am »
I believe I checked the dead one with misc fuse in place, also the misc fuse slot has 2 Siamese red wires feeding it

Offline 734406pk

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Re: fuse box question
« Reply #32 on: April 13, 2017 - 08:52:36 am »
Here is a wiring diagram for a 72. Shows a red and pink wire joined at that fuse. The pink wire feeds the head light switch. The red wire feeds power to the clock, map light switch, cig lighter, glove box light. Also shown is a "time delay relay" for the keyswitch light and interior lights. Check this area carefully. The "Battery" side of the fuse block is hot at all times. You can disconnect all of the components involved first to see if you have a short in the harness. Then reconnect one at a time to locate the bad component. I hope this helps!

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BKZzYkvc9dQ/TxTIyX8sQDI/AAAAAAAABa4/B3IZN2HqYH8/s1600/Dodge+Challenger+1972+Complete+Wiring+Diagram.jpg
1973 Challenger 440 6 pack auto 3.91 rear
2012 Dodge Ram 3500 dually 6.7 Cummins Fleece EFI Live
1973 Challenger 318 2bbl auto 2.73 rear 22.5 mpg RIP
1970 Challenger TA 340 4bbl auto-Sold and sad
1999 Dodge Ram 3500 dually 5.9 Cummins Fleece tuned VGT-sold
1995 Kawasaki ZX1100E & still alive


Offline xtopfuel

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Re: fuse box question
« Reply #33 on: April 13, 2017 - 02:28:54 pm »
that works, thank you

Offline 734406pk

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Re: fuse box question
« Reply #34 on: April 13, 2017 - 09:21:57 pm »
 I've found it helpful to take out the drivers seat (4 nuts) for better access under the dash. Good Luck, I hope it's easy to find!
1973 Challenger 440 6 pack auto 3.91 rear
2012 Dodge Ram 3500 dually 6.7 Cummins Fleece EFI Live
1973 Challenger 318 2bbl auto 2.73 rear 22.5 mpg RIP
1970 Challenger TA 340 4bbl auto-Sold and sad
1999 Dodge Ram 3500 dually 5.9 Cummins Fleece tuned VGT-sold
1995 Kawasaki ZX1100E & still alive

Offline xtopfuel

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Re: fuse box question
« Reply #35 on: April 14, 2017 - 06:00:14 am »
good idea, the old back doesn't like under dash

Offline xtopfuel

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Re: fuse box question
« Reply #36 on: April 25, 2017 - 06:49:57 pm »
hey guys/gals I removed the dash cluster today as I received my new RTE IVR so all looks good and will be an easy deal however, as I have said no gauges work so as I look at this everything is connected and at the ammeter posts it says red but I have no red wire with a post connecter, does anyone have a picture or diagram?
thank you

Offline xtopfuel

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Re: fuse box question
« Reply #37 on: April 27, 2017 - 05:18:00 pm »
well this sucks, I think someone before me has wired something wrong, I installed new IVR limiter and figured I would test before reinstalling, I had a red LED light on limiter I got oil pressure started climbing, temp also no fuel then no red LED light on limiter and no gauges UGH :horse: I really need to know what color wires go to everything
the IVR is pretty simple except what color is the hot lead, I also still have no power to the instrument lights fuse and still no instrument lights

Offline Lbs

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Re: fuse box question
« Reply #38 on: April 27, 2017 - 07:39:31 pm »
Here's a schematic of the dash and bulkhead. This has been invaluable to me for all sorts of wiring projects. Hope it helps you.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


Offline xtopfuel

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Re: fuse box question
« Reply #39 on: April 27, 2017 - 07:49:41 pm »
I will give it a shot thanks

Offline 1 Wild R/T

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Re: fuse box question
« Reply #40 on: April 29, 2017 - 11:05:47 pm »
Didn't read the whole thread but if you haven't found out yet the inst fuse is only powered when the parking lights or head lights are on.....
JS27N0B 70 Challenger R/T Convertible  FJ5 Sublime, Show Poodle w/90,000 miles since resto
WS27L8G 68 Coronet R/T Convertible  PP1 Bright Red, Project
RM21H9E 69 Road Runner Coupe R4 Performance Red, Sold...
5H21C  65 Falcon 2 dr Wagon... Dog Hauler...

Offline xtopfuel

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Re: fuse box question
« Reply #41 on: April 30, 2017 - 06:39:38 am »
no have not found yet but did some testing yesterday at shop and noticed that the inst fuse with test light is very very dim, had to do in dark or I would have thought it had nothing, my search continues

Offline xtopfuel

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Re: fuse box question
« Reply #42 on: May 04, 2017 - 04:47:45 am »
UPDATE!! HELP please okay so I got a few minutes yesterday and as I previously stated the inst light fuse was very dime, but yesterday I realized its only dim and hot for that matter when the car is running, no change when rotating the dash lamp dial it has no power with key in on position of off only with engine running, I thought I was fairly good at this stuff but must be way to long ago so any help would be appreciated

Offline xtopfuel

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Re: fuse box question
« Reply #43 on: May 05, 2017 - 04:43:51 am »
UPDATE
Okay took afternoon yesterday and pulled the bulkhead apart, cleaned, dialectic lubed, found a green wire with red chaser broken but not that I think that was the issue because its most certain for the horn, put everything back together and I have dash lights, gauges and brake lights, thanks for all the assist. after a few minutes of running oil pressure gauge appears to not work again but possibly sender. this car is actually quite amazing as I have found so much original stuff, car has original rear speakers with original wires running to them in cloth sleeve in all loops

Offline 734406pk

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Re: fuse box question
« Reply #44 on: May 06, 2017 - 08:47:24 pm »
UPDATE
Okay took afternoon yesterday and pulled the bulkhead apart, cleaned, dialectic lubed, found a green wire with red chaser broken but not that I think that was the issue because its most certain for the horn, put everything back together and I have dash lights, gauges and brake lights, thanks for all the assist. after a few minutes of running oil pressure gauge appears to not work again but possibly sender. this car is actually quite amazing as I have found so much original stuff, car has original rear speakers with original wires running to them in cloth sleeve in all loops

Yep Green Wire w/ red tracer is the horn wire. You may want to consider replacing some of the wire harnesses. I sounds like you have some corrosion issues. This will drive you crazy with intermittent electrical issues. The dash harness is the expensive one. It's the center of the entire electrical system IMO.
1973 Challenger 440 6 pack auto 3.91 rear
2012 Dodge Ram 3500 dually 6.7 Cummins Fleece EFI Live
1973 Challenger 318 2bbl auto 2.73 rear 22.5 mpg RIP
1970 Challenger TA 340 4bbl auto-Sold and sad
1999 Dodge Ram 3500 dually 5.9 Cummins Fleece tuned VGT-sold
1995 Kawasaki ZX1100E & still alive