Author Topic: Heater control valve any reason not to use the 73-74 version on 70 'cuda?  (Read 829 times)

Offline widing'cuda

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 586
  • 70 'cuda383 - BS23N0E
    • w i d i n g ' c u d a
Any reason for not using a 73-74 heater control valve 3502723 on a 70 'cuda, other then it's not the correct type for 70 'cuda?
Is the 70-71 heater control valve better then the 73-74 version?
I had the correct heater control valve for my 70 'cuda. But it cracked in the black plastic and my car over heated. Luckily nothing got damage.
I now have some cheap aftermarket crap, and it doesn't close good enough. So when the heater is of I still get heat for the heater. So I need to replace it.
« Last Edit: August 31, 2016 - 12:09:59 pm by widing'cuda »

- Jrgen - Norwegian Mopar fanatic

1970 Plymouth 'Cuda 383 A833 8-3/4 3.23 suregrip
http://cuda.widing.biz/




Offline 1 Wild R/T

  • Resident
  • *****
  • Posts: 4229
Bolt on the late model valve & don't look back....  I've had three of the OE 70 valves fail, they've gotten way to pricey to keep replacing... The newer design valve is better & cheaper.... Just doesn't look "correct" anyone who has a problem, feel free to buy me the correct valve & I'll be happy to use it....

Oh, reuse your original fender bracket that bolts to the fender & valve, cut away most of the bracket on the new valve & bolt the valve to the OE bracket....
« Last Edit: August 31, 2016 - 12:21:40 pm by 1 Wild R/T »
JS27N0B 70 Challenger R/T Convertible  FJ5 Sublime, Show Poodle w/90,000 miles since resto
WS27L8G 68 Coronet R/T Convertible  PP1 Bright Red, Project
RM21H9E 69 Road Runner Coupe R4 Performance Red, Sold...
5H21C  65 Falcon 2 dr Wagon... Dog Hauler...

Offline widing'cuda

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 586
  • 70 'cuda383 - BS23N0E
    • w i d i n g ' c u d a
Bolt on the late model valve & don't look back....  I've had three of the OE 70 valves fail, they've gotten way to pricey to keep replacing... The newer design valve is better & cheaper.... Just doesn't look "correct" anyone who has a problem, feel free to buy me the correct valve & I'll be happy to use it....

Oh, reuse your original fender bracket that bolts to the fender & valve, cut away most of the bracket on the new valve & bolt the valve to the OE bracket....

Ok, thanks 73-74 is what I'll go for then.
Sadly to old bracket was gone when I got the 'cuda. So I've used the ones that came with the so called NOS 70 heater valve. So the brackets on the 73-74 will work fin. My inner fenders are full of holse anyeway ;)

- Jrgen - Norwegian Mopar fanatic

1970 Plymouth 'Cuda 383 A833 8-3/4 3.23 suregrip
http://cuda.widing.biz/


Offline cv70chall

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 244
  • 1970 Challenger
Just saw this post. Having the same issues- hot air blowing in from the vents too.
Does the cable connection remain the same? (No adjustments)

Thanks

Offline 1 Wild R/T

  • Resident
  • *****
  • Posts: 4229
There are two versions of the valve, they look the same but the lever works opposite so hot is cool & cool is hot.... On mine the 73 valve worked fine but I've heard of guys getting the opposite style.... End of the day it doesn't matter I never read the thing, I just adjust it to the temperature I want....
JS27N0B 70 Challenger R/T Convertible  FJ5 Sublime, Show Poodle w/90,000 miles since resto
WS27L8G 68 Coronet R/T Convertible  PP1 Bright Red, Project
RM21H9E 69 Road Runner Coupe R4 Performance Red, Sold...
5H21C  65 Falcon 2 dr Wagon... Dog Hauler...

Offline cv70chall

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 244
  • 1970 Challenger
On my 70 valve, it only mounts one way so the cable can attach. So, the fact that I'm getting hot air has to be due to it failing to properly deflect the water, so replacing it makes sense- especially with thew newer valve.

Offline sdweatherman

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 69
Make sure that when you get it all set up and have tested it out - let us know back here how it is working out. Thanks.

Offline cv70chall

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 244
  • 1970 Challenger
I guess worst case is- the valve position for H versus C may be reversed, so at the end of the day, I simply leave it where it stays cold and that's it.
I'll let you all know how it works...

Offline AARTA340

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 1223
I guess worst case is- the valve position for H versus C may be reversed, so at the end of the day, I simply leave it where it stays cold and that's it.
I'll let you all know how it works...


Some of the guys use one of the valve as listed on :ebay:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HVAC-Heater-Control-Valve-Shut-Off-Valve-COMPRESSOR-WORKS-803605-/321920591858?hash=item4af3f667f2:g:owYAAOSw241YlpcJ&vxp=mtr

Offline cv70chall

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 244
  • 1970 Challenger
That's definitely not correct. There should be 2 inlets and 2 outlets.

Offline 1 Wild R/T

  • Resident
  • *****
  • Posts: 4229
That's definitely not correct. There should be 2 inlets and 2 outlets.

Yeah, but if you stop flow on one hose it'll do the same thing....
JS27N0B 70 Challenger R/T Convertible  FJ5 Sublime, Show Poodle w/90,000 miles since resto
WS27L8G 68 Coronet R/T Convertible  PP1 Bright Red, Project
RM21H9E 69 Road Runner Coupe R4 Performance Red, Sold...
5H21C  65 Falcon 2 dr Wagon... Dog Hauler...

Offline AARTA340

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 1223
Yeah, but if you stop flow on one hose it'll do the same thing....

The mechanics of some valves just shut off only one hose and the other is just a straight through tube. By using the single valve type, it will absolutely shut the water off, no bypassig a butterfly valve. And as Wild said, you turn off the supply, there is nothing to return.  You will not find that single valve on any car to be judged, but it does keep the heat out of the passenger area. :2cents: Got one on my driver vert.  :cheers:

Offline cv70chall

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 244
  • 1970 Challenger
Got it.
For some reason, I thought that water flow had to be allowed- whether through the heater core- or- bypassed and back to the engine.

Offline 1 Wild R/T

  • Resident
  • *****
  • Posts: 4229
If it were the only flow path & the water pump were a positive displacement design then yes you would need a diverting path.... But there are other flow paths (through the engine) and the pump isn't a positive displacement design it's a impeller type pump so the water can just stall in the water pump....

However if you were to put a pressure gauge on the cooling system when the thermostat is closed you might be surprised how much pressure it builds.... 

Back in the late 80's we were getting Ford Crown Vic Sheriffs cars into the dealer every week with a blown heater core.... Pulling the dash out was getting pretty old....Took a little detective work to find the issue.... Turns out when the thermostat was closed there was no bypass & the radiator cap was out of the pressure area between the pump & thermostat... When cold, thermostat shut 4500 rpm's you could get over 80 PSI in the cooling system & Ford had put their heater water valve on the outlet side of the heater....  So we had a few officers that hated their Crown Vic & would rather drive the old 9C1 Caprice so every night they would let the Crown Vic cool down completely then around 5 am fire it up, heat off, low gear WOT to the freeway..... Oh Darn the heater failed again..... Guess I gotta drive the old Chevy...  Sherrifs car heads into he dealer for another heater.... When we'd done about twenty heater cores in less than two months we had a Ford Manufacturers Rep wanting to know WTF was going on.....  I hooked up a pressure gauge & showed him what I'd discovered....   

Ford got video of the car outside the sheriffs dept at 5 am... Wound up billing the county for all those heater cores... And I suggested a bypass type heater valve.....
JS27N0B 70 Challenger R/T Convertible  FJ5 Sublime, Show Poodle w/90,000 miles since resto
WS27L8G 68 Coronet R/T Convertible  PP1 Bright Red, Project
RM21H9E 69 Road Runner Coupe R4 Performance Red, Sold...
5H21C  65 Falcon 2 dr Wagon... Dog Hauler...