Barracuda Challenger Forum

Author Topic: CHRYCO BUILD LIST FOR SMALL AND BIG BLOCK STROKERS  (Read 1818 times)

Offline 73cudabr

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Re: CHRYCO BUILD LIST FOR SMALL AND BIG BLOCK STROKERS
« Reply #15 on: November 22, 2016 - 04:51:43 pm »
Here is my 505 - no numbers except it plants you back in your seat. Very happy with this combo, runs amazing in every gear, and pulls as long as you want it to.

https://youtu.be/HIYHRgbeYOI

https://youtu.be/UrF7DdJVZFw

Sounds great! I'd like another video with WOT through the gears  :ylsuper:




Offline CUDA8U

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Re: CHRYCO BUILD LIST FOR SMALL AND BIG BLOCK STROKERS
« Reply #16 on: April 21, 2017 - 02:25:02 am »
Old thread but I am still curious what parts CHRYCO would throw together for a big block street stroker.Most guys I talk to are running a 727,28-3500 stall.3:55 seems to be the normand of course big hp in the 600 range.

Offline Chryco Psycho

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Re: CHRYCO BUILD LIST FOR SMALL AND BIG BLOCK STROKERS
« Reply #17 on: May 21, 2017 - 10:45:20 am »
Ok let me work on this

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Offline Chryco Psycho

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Re: CHRYCO BUILD LIST FOR SMALL AND BIG BLOCK STROKERS
« Reply #18 on: May 26, 2017 - 09:50:32 pm »
2 choices using a B block 
451 using a 440 crank ,I would use the longer 6.76 rod with a shorter piston
or 472 giving up a bit of rod ratio for CI
Again 2 choices you can use a 440 steel crank & cut the journals  with a 451 or just buy a kit with the right crank supplied & balanced 451 or 472 including crank, rods , pistons brgs & rings already balanced
 I generally use 440 source priced right & they work / fit , this will remove 6 lbs of rotating mass so now you have  440 that will rev like a small block
I always use  flat top piston & closed Chamber head for better flame travel .
You have to do the math to get the right piston to get quench & still keep the compression ratio in the 10.6-10.8 rang with pump fuel & Alum heads
There are a number of head choices  soe are moe expensive than thers & some make more power than others & ore $$ doesn't= more power in some cases
I have used a lot of different heads , with different purpose in mind , there are some great street heads & some massive race heads , the best would seem to bee medium port slightly bigger the the port iron heads but not crazy port volume & heart shaped chambers Bulldog was great when they were available the new Trick Flow see to have all the benefits with little downside , Stealth & Super Stealth offer a lot of value for the $$ spent but lower power with stealth 
RB similar choices
512 is great for a street build with good rod ratio basedon the 440 block
again 440 Source parts basically drop in & are prebalanced with good piston choices
Head selection is the same deal everything from Stealth to Ind EZ or bigger B1 but I still like the super Stealth & Trick flow has the best all round pkg IMO

Most of these builds make a ton of torque between 2200 & 5300 with a very flt power curve so I tend to design am s to work in the 2200-6000 range & use stall converter & gearing with the same though in mind , the tq curve is very flat making the same tq @ each end of the powerband with only a slight rise so yo can cruise around 2500 rpm & still have peak power on tap,no need to rev the crap out of it  .

Intakes are a similar situation , I often use the Street Dominator as with a good port work this leaves nothing on the table & sit low for hood clearance , I also love the M1 single plane is a  great intake ,  the performer Rpm is great too but is very tall
To be cont

Challenger - You`ll wish You Hadn`t

Offline GranCuda1970

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Re: CHRYCO BUILD LIST FOR SMALL AND BIG BLOCK STROKERS
« Reply #19 on: May 27, 2017 - 11:49:58 pm »
2 choices using a B block 
451 using a 440 crank ,I would use the longer 6.76 rod with a shorter piston
or 472 giving up a bit of rod ratio for CI
Again 2 choices you can use a 440 steel crank & cut the journals  with a 451 or just buy a kit with the right crank supplied & balanced 451 or 472 including crank, rods , pistons brgs & rings already balanced
 I generally use 440 source priced right & they work / fit , this will remove 6 lbs of rotating mass so now you have  440 that will rev like a small block
I always use  flat top piston & closed Chamber head for better flame travel .
You have to do the math to get the right piston to get quench & still keep the compression ratio in the 10.6-10.8 rang with pump fuel & Alum heads
There are a number of head choices  soe are moe expensive than thers & some make more power than others & ore $$ doesn't= more power in some cases
I have used a lot of different heads , with different purpose in mind , there are some great street heads & some massive race heads , the best would seem to bee medium port slightly bigger the the port iron heads but not crazy port volume & heart shaped chambers Bulldog was great when they were available the new Trick Flow see to have all the benefits with little downside , Stealth & Super Stealth offer a lot of value for the $$ spent but lower power with stealth 
RB similar choices
512 is great for a street build with good rod ratio basedon the 440 block
again 440 Source parts basically drop in & are prebalanced with good piston choices
Head selection is the same deal everything from Stealth to Ind EZ or bigger B1 but I still like the super Stealth & Trick flow has the best all round pkg IMO

Most of these builds make a ton of torque between 2200 & 5300 with a very flt power curve so I tend to design am s to work in the 2200-6000 range & use stall converter & gearing with the same though in mind , the tq curve is very flat making the same tq @ each end of the powerband with only a slight rise so yo can cruise around 2500 rpm & still have peak power on tap,no need to rev the crap out of it  .

Intakes are a similar situation , I often use the Street Dominator as with a good port work this leaves nothing on the table & sit low for hood clearance , I also love the M1 single plane is a  great intake ,  the performer Rpm is great too but is very tall
To be cont

Sounds like a Badass combination. :burnout: