Barracuda Challenger Forum

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Newb Intros / Dreaming about getting an E Body
« Last post by DrEamer on Today at 01:31:58 PM »
    I thought I would introduce myself, since it is the right thing to do. I currently do not own a E body, but am dreaming of owning one again. Hence the user name DrEamer, with the E capitalized for E body. I started my driving life as a Mopar fan. My first car was a 1971 Dodge Demon with a 225 slant 6, and 3 on the tree manual. My second car  was a 1970 Plymouth Duster that was a original 340 car, but I bought as a rolling chassis, and dropped in a 318. I finely ended up in E body land, when I bought my third car, which was a 1972 Challenger which is pictured below. My dad actually located it for me from a guy that he worked with. It had a 318, with a column shift 904 trans. It came with a cracked green vinyl top and hub caps. I replaced the top with the black top, put Appliance steel five spoke wheels, and a T/A style spoiler on the back. It was my collage car, and we had a ton of great memories together. Eventually I bought my forth Mopar, which was a 1970 Challenger, 340, 4 speed, Rallye package car. When I got it, the previous owner had crashed it, and it needed repair. Unfortunately I ended up selling both Challengers to fund my schooling. To this day I still regret selling my Challengers, so here I am dreaming about getting a Challenger or Cuda again.
    Presently my search is for a project, since a complete car is out of my budget with a family and kids. I may have found a project, but will not know if the owner is going to sell it for another 6 months or so.  We have agreed on a price, I just need to save up some more cash for if/when it come available. Until then, I hope you don't mind my lurking and occasional post.
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Wow!   Verry cool car!... and different than most!
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Engine & Go Fast Goodies / Re: Can I reuse head gaskets?
« Last post by Mopar Mitch on Today at 01:14:27 PM »
OK... since you've decided to use a new set, save the old ones for a future rebuild whereby you can install, check piston-valve clearance, over and over again.... for future rebuilds.
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Any info on the led side marker lights? Did you fab them or does someone sell a kit? Really liking the look and color of the car. Stripes look good.  :2thumbs:

I just bought some rolls of waterproof led strip lighting. It's cheap and you end up with lots more than you need. Learned from pinball machines that you use the colored LED's to enhance the lens. The rears are red and the front amber. I also bought the digitails LED lights for the tail lights and bought LED bulbs for the interior lights and amber 1157 LED bulbs for the front turn signals. Have to use a electronic flashes that I got from amazon. (Black MenbaŽ frequency Adjustable 2-Pin Electronic LED Flasher, $7.50 each) The digitails lights are set up to go sequential, which is a cool feature. it can be turned off if you don't like it, but I did so they are sequential.

Here are a few pics of the front turns and side markers with the LED strip. You just cut them off where it's marked and solder wires on.
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Don't be jealous of my heater core bypass hose.  8)  :-*
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Old car show pic I zoomed in on / screenshot...

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With disc front/drum rear, you should get around 1500-2000 psi front, 800-1000 psi rear...

Front discs could be 'glazed', also... cuts effective braking rate in half... look for blued rotors and heat checking...

I've heard of old brake hoses separating internally, and blocking flow with pcs of rubber... bad rusty lines or really old fluid can also crud up lines as well... normal fluid 'can' asorb water, and if in lines can make brakes mushy (water compresses a lot more than brake fluid does)... an easy check would be to drain all the brake fluid out from the lines and install new fluid and bleed completely...

All brake lines/hoses have been replaced with new....maybe 5 years old.

Fluid is high end Motul. All was bled out when new booster/master was installed.

Thought about the pads...but didn't think it make that huge of a difference.

Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk

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Putting the vacuum pump & reservoir in the trunk means you need to up size the line to the front...  I'd go at least 1/2"....  Or I'd do what most folks do & mount at least the reservoir under the drivers fender.... 

You say parts store booster... Post a picture... Hopefully it's the big Bendix unit...

Hose is quite large I know....but can't remember exactly size. The system worked fine without the extra can....I just tried that as a cheap fix. Didn't really help/hurt.

The booster is the same size as the one that came off of it (stock).
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With disc front/drum rear, you should get around 1500-2000 psi front, 800-1000 psi rear...

Front discs could be 'glazed', also... cuts effective braking rate in half... look for blued rotors and heat checking...

I've heard of old brake hoses separating internally, and blocking flow with pcs of rubber... bad rusty lines or really old fluid can also crud up lines as well... normal fluid 'can' asorb water, and if in lines can make brakes mushy (water compresses a lot more than brake fluid does)... an easy check would be to drain all the brake fluid out from the lines and install new fluid and bleed completely...
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The Body Shop sponsored by AUTO METAL DIRECT / AMD or Dynacorn
« Last post by brotow on Today at 12:13:22 PM »
I need help making my decision. I have a choice of AMD or Dynacorn fenders for my 1970 Challenger. Does anyone have good or bad experiences on either brand? Any opinions? fitment issues, pluses or minuses?  There is a $150 difference in price, minor plus for  Dynacorn.
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