Alignment specs

[Chryco Psycho]

E bodies were delivered with bias tire for the most part so the alignment specs do not work for radial tires .
 Assuming all of the bushings , ball joints & tierods are in good shape .
Changing the ride height by adjusting the torsion bars will affect setting & should be corrected First
 optimum is
- Caster get as much as the adjustment will allow usually barely 3* this is done by turning the front adjusters so the control arm is as far outward as possible & the rear adjuster so the arm is as far inward as possible .  Installing Moogs offset upper bushing will get you more adjustment range .
- Camber  you want approx 1/2* negative so the top of the tire is slightly inward , this adjustment is done with the upper control aem cam bolts as well so you may have to back them off slightly to get the camber right .
- Toe in should be 1/16" 

 If the shop has to input a vehicle As a guideline HP2 suggests using  2005 Mustang Gt specs , you will not get there but it is a good start

[Cudaragtop]

- Toe in should be 1/16" 

Do you want 1/16" total, 1/32" each right and left or 1/16" each right and left for a total 1/8" combined? 

[soundcontrol]

Good info!
I'm wondering about adjustable strut rods, those can change the caster, but doesn't that make the LCA pivot at an angle and put a strain on the LCA bushings?

[dodj]

Good info!
I'm wondering about adjustable strut rods, those can change the caster, but doesn't that make the LCA pivot at an angle and put a strain on the LCA bushings?

They can be used to adjust caster, but that is not what they are for and should not be used for adjusting caster. The strut rod is just for holding the lca in position. Not pushing or pulling it.

[Chryco Psycho]

Do you want 1/16" total, 1/32" each right and left or 1/16" each right and left for a total 1/8" combined? 

 You want 1/16" total toe in , with very wide front tires you can increase to 1/8 max as the drag of the tires increased so the deflection of the steering parts is increased

[HP2]

Good info!
I'm wondering about adjustable strut rods, those can change the caster, but doesn't that make the LCA pivot at an angle and put a strain on the LCA bushings?

You want to use the adjustable strut to  fine tune the arc of the lower control arm which may allow an additional degree or two of caster. Because they move in conflicting arcs, there is always binding between the strut and lower control arm, especially as their range of travel increases. However, you do not want to use an adjustable strut to dial in all your caster because, as you point out, it can create additional bind and that bind could potentially occur within the usable range of motion instead of at the extremes. Caster is better accomplished by moving the the upper arm.

Thanks for the shout out CP. Great idea for a pinned note!  FWIW, the '05 Mustang GT specs are -.75* camber, +7.1* caster ( which you wont achieve with a mopar, but take as much as they can get while offsetting the camber spec) and .1* to .2* toe in , which on  a 26" diamter tire, is right about 1/16" total toe in.  I know there are some shops out there that will only use the specs that are in their computer and they will not tackle a customer provided number. Using Mustang specs give them a late model input and a target to shoot for.

The reason for such high caster angles is that you want a caster angle that will offset the built in spindle (or kingpin for old school dudes) angles when you turn the car and the body rolls over the suspension. This offset in angles creates a greater dynamic change in the suspension as it moves which allows the tire to remain more upright while the  body rolls. The more upright the tire, the greater the grip it can produce. The greater the dynamic change, the less static change you have to use thus meaning the more postiive caster you have, the less negative camber you have to  install initially. Most stock mopars have spindle angles between 6-7*

High caster angles also assist with return to center of the steering. The increased caster requires greater effort, which also helps offset some of the overassist feeling that a stock mopar steering system will have. If you have a manual steering box, you may want to be more careful with using high caster because of this extra effort. Finally, high caster helps with vehicle stability at speed so your car will feel more solid on the highway and going over road irregularities.

[Chryco Psycho]

No Problem HP2 , add any relevant info .
 I think we have had the same question about 6 times in the last month so why not have a sticky for it !

[dave73chally]

Getting my car aligned tomorrow and would like some input. I have 235/35/15 tires up front, 275/60/15 out back. Hotchkis upper control arms, torsion bars, sway bar, steering rods, rear leafs. QA1 adjustable shocks and strut rods. Car at the collector flange is about 5" off the ground, front tire is tucked slightly into the wheel well.

Should I go with the 2005 mustang specs as the baseline or is something different recommended due to the parts I have?

[Chryco Psycho]

Start with the Mustang specs
I assume you are mostly street driven
If you are Autocrossing you can use more caster & camber

[Aracer]

 

If the castor is not equal side to side it, will cause the wheel to sort of follow the dips in the road.   example: the passenger side was +3.25* and drivers was +2.8*. Solution is to back off the passenger side castor. Or rebuild with the offset Moog problem solver bushing on the driver''s side to add the same castor as the pass. I use the flat spot below the upper ball j, on the front side of the spindles back (dam I can't name that part), I stick the Harbor Freight Digital angle finder and read the castor.  Camber is found on the wheel edge or cap. Toe is set with tape measures and my eyeball, head touching fender.

[GoodysGotaCuda]

fwiw - Hotchkis told me the following specs when using the Hotchkis Upper Control arms and Tie Rods

[Mopar Mitch]

For serious parking lot pylon autocross competition, a touch of toe-out will help with quicker steering turn-in.  I've run as much as 1/2" total toe-out for pylon competition (car was trailered back then, so, no street/highway driving concerns).  For normal street/highway driving, toe-in helps with steering stability.