Barracuda Challenger Forum

Author Topic: 16.4 volts at the battery  (Read 5558 times)

Offline shadango

  • Resident
  • *****
  • Posts: 3880
Re: 16.4 volts at the battery
« Reply #90 on: June 12, 2017 - 01:45:42 pm »
I highly recommend testing the voltage drop here (pin 16, fuse link) with the electrical system fully loaded. It just may be the cause of most of the voltage drop measured already.

Ok, will check the next time I get a chance.

We were at an event this past weekend and once again had a problem with the gas/temp gauges -- this time, not pegged, but DEAD.    Started aboit 20 minutes from the house.  Kicked in and out during the 4 hour trip.  Coming home, they worked 100% fine. Go figure.

I did replace the voltage limiter with a good electronic one (RTE) a ways back.
« Last Edit: June 12, 2017 - 02:22:19 pm by shadango »




Offline 734406pk

  • Andy
  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 1660
Re: 16.4 volts at the battery
« Reply #91 on: June 12, 2017 - 08:58:45 pm »
Check the drop when you have time...

quote:
We were at an event this past weekend and once again had a problem with the gas/temp gauges -- this time, not pegged, but DEAD.

Was the oil pressure gauge working correctly at the time the gas/temp gauges were out?
1973 Challenger 440 6 pack auto 3.91 rear
2012 Dodge Ram 3500 dually 6.7 Cummins Fleece EFI Live
1973 Challenger 318 2bbl auto 2.73 rear 22.5 mpg RIP
1970 Challenger TA 340 4bbl auto-Sold and sad
1999 Dodge Ram 3500 dually 5.9 Cummins Fleece tuned VGT-sold
1995 Kawasaki ZX1100E & still alive

Offline shadango

  • Resident
  • *****
  • Posts: 3880
Re: 16.4 volts at the battery
« Reply #92 on: June 13, 2017 - 05:19:49 am »
Check the drop when you have time...

quote:
We were at an event this past weekend and once again had a problem with the gas/temp gauges -- this time, not pegged, but DEAD.

Was the oil pressure gauge working correctly at the time the gas/temp gauges were out?

I have  a standard gauge cluster so no oil gauge (I have aftermarket gauges for that, water and volts).....


Offline 734406pk

  • Andy
  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 1660
Re: 16.4 volts at the battery
« Reply #93 on: June 13, 2017 - 10:12:27 pm »
Ah, ok. Check the feed wire to the voltage limiter (Black Wire). The connector may be loose or corroded where it slips onto the terminal.
1973 Challenger 440 6 pack auto 3.91 rear
2012 Dodge Ram 3500 dually 6.7 Cummins Fleece EFI Live
1973 Challenger 318 2bbl auto 2.73 rear 22.5 mpg RIP
1970 Challenger TA 340 4bbl auto-Sold and sad
1999 Dodge Ram 3500 dually 5.9 Cummins Fleece tuned VGT-sold
1995 Kawasaki ZX1100E & still alive

Offline shadango

  • Resident
  • *****
  • Posts: 3880
Re: 16.4 volts at the battery
« Reply #94 on: July 25, 2017 - 01:18:13 pm »
Ah, ok. Check the feed wire to the voltage limiter (Black Wire). The connector may be loose or corroded where it slips onto the terminal.

Geez -- where is the summer going.....

what are the chances I will be able to access the VL from under the dash?

Probably between slim and none and slim left town...LOL

Cause now, the fuel and temp gauges are dead the last few drives.......not coming back like before....hoping its just a wire and not the VL.....

Have to tear out the dash to get to the wire and the VL....and thats a pain.......thinking that pulling the drivers seat so I can go from underneath would be easier, but not sure its a straight shot or not...maybe I can pull the ash tray housing out and go in that way??  Seems to be in the vicinity of where I would need to go,.......????

In the meantime, I have to take the car to have a self-imposed dent looked at.....

And just before Carlisle, the battery died altogether so a new battery now graces the fish.   gauge still showing charging about the same so at least the battery is out of the equation.

I do hope to remember to check the last drop item you suggested soon.....honestly, it just keeps getting back burnered......sheesh.
************
Ok, update --- I found that I could pull my stereo out and snake my fat arm up into behind the dash and get a hand on the wires to the VL.

Found that pushing one of the connectors at the VL to one side made it work and oushing the other it quit......worked the connector on and off a few times and same deal.....since I couldnt get to the connector itself this way, I twisted the connector slightly on the VL and it is holding......

After looking online, figured out that the wire in question is the Y harness from the VL to the fuel/temp gauges (its a y cable).

Gonna wait and see if my twisting helps long term....if not I may try to pull just the y harness this way but man I may not get it installed again this way...cant see anything, its all by feel.

To change the actual VL (if the connector at the VL is the issue), the dash will have to come out.  Its one of those electronic VLs with the red LED light on it.  Installed that 5 or 6 years back.

As an aside, you could NEVER do what I did on a new car....LOL...love the old car designs that let you work on stuff!
« Last Edit: July 25, 2017 - 10:29:54 pm by shadango »

Offline 70chall440

  • Resident
  • *****
  • Posts: 3421
Re: 16.4 volts at the battery
« Reply #95 on: July 27, 2017 - 04:15:53 pm »
I don't think you have to pull the cluster to replace the VL; definitely easier to replace if you do but I installed one in my Challenger laying on the floor w/o the drivers seat in. Not super easy but it can be done.
Current Mopar
70 Challenger RT 440-6, 73 Cuda (under const)
05 Durango, 99 Dakota, 01 Ram 4x4, 14 2500 4X4, 10 PCP Challenger RT, 01 Viper GTS ACR, 52 B3B w/330 Desoto Hemi, 70 Hemi RR, 61 Jeep FC170
Past Mopars
9 x Challengers. AAR Cuda, 4 RR, 2 GTX, 4 Chargers, etc... (too many to list)

Offline dodj

  • Sr. Resident
  • ******
  • Posts: 6177
Re: 16.4 volts at the battery
« Reply #96 on: July 27, 2017 - 06:39:45 pm »
I don't find it that difficult to drop the steering column onto the seat then pull the cluster out enough to change the VL. :2cents:
Scott
1973 Challenger  440 4 spd 
2007.5 3500 6.7 Cummins Diesel, Anarchy tuned.
Good friends don't let friends do stupid things. ........alone.

Offline shadango

  • Resident
  • *****
  • Posts: 3880
Re: 16.4 volts at the battery
« Reply #97 on: July 29, 2017 - 01:27:00 pm »
I don't find it that difficult to drop the steering column onto the seat then pull the cluster out enough to change the VL. :2cents:

I've done that....the switch pod has to come out, the metal dash light assembly has to come out, the gauge cluster bezel has to come out , which for me means removing the tach I have installed, and then the gauge cluster itself has to get pulled out......lots of screws and wires and such.

None of it hard.  But its not a 5 minute job.  LOL  Would rather pursue an easier route though I know thats probably the best way.

Seat comes out with 4 bolts....but seems to me that the location of the VL on MY car (right above/near the column) would make that harder.....didnt seem like it was accessible due to the column?


Offline shadango

  • Resident
  • *****
  • Posts: 3880
Re: 16.4 volts at the battery
« Reply #98 on: July 29, 2017 - 02:43:46 pm »
So now restart the car, idle speed 1200 rpm and fully load the electrical system (high beams on etc)as before. Connect you positive volt meter lead to the positive battery post and the with negative test lead, back probe pin 16 on the bulkhead connector-engine side. Write down this reading as H.

 This will test the power feed (fuse link) into the car. With the ammeter bypassed, the entire electrical load passes through this one wire. :eek7:

Alright so......after figuring out which one was #16 (the big red wire) I ended up pulling the bulkhead connector (engine side) because I realized I could not easily back probe the #16 pin and wanted to look at it.

The red wire has a think rubber insulating boot where it goes it to the plug.  I hesitate to puncture the big red wire....

That said I plugged the connector back in and started the car again and now it stays at 15.0 rather than 15.6-15.8.  Just moments before pulling that connector it was reading 15.6-15.8.....

So obviously disturbing the bulkhead connector did something there.   SO the good news is that I may be on to something here.

The bad news is that the fuel and temp gauge are dead again....LOL...so my twisting the wire didnt make difference....though I ran the car for 60 miles the other night and all was well.  So go figure.

Back to the damn drawing board on that -- not sure if it will be the VL or "just a wire"....looks like ripping it all apart is gonna be required.....

I got my hand on the same wire again on the back of the VL and found it to be completely loose now....even if I push on it and make a connection now, NOTHING.  Weird.  It was a tight connection before. At least I thunk it was....and loike I said it worked for a couple hour drive.

I record my mileage at every fill up and have a seperate temp gauge so its not a huge issue as long as the odometer keeps working.  Truth be told, the gas gauge has never be uber reliable anyways.   It stays at full a long time then starts dropping fast...when it is reading a 1/4 tank it is accrurate because it generally takes 10-11 gallons at that point.  But I rely on the mileage more than the gauge. Just hate to have it not working....and looking "empty" all the time....LOL

Did I mention I hate electrical issues?  LOL
« Last Edit: July 29, 2017 - 04:07:09 pm by shadango »