Barracuda Challenger Forum

Author Topic: which distributor for 440-6 with MSD 6AL  (Read 430 times)

Offline 734406pk

  • Andy
  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 1635
Re: which distributor for 440-6 with MSD 6AL
« Reply #15 on: April 17, 2017 - 09:11:41 PM »
QUOTE::
2 things I don't get #1 = why do I need a convertor box for my rallye dash tach to work if I install MSD 6AL and pro billet distributor? I have the orange box and regular vac adv dist now and no need for a special convertor box.
#2 = 734406pk, you're saying that if I have a vac adv dist then no need for MSD box...but I need the orange box?why? And yes they do make RTR pro billet msd, found it at summit's link.

#1= You need a converter box for your rallye dash tach when using the MSD 6AL, regardless of which distributor you will be using. The tach waveform from the MSD6 AL is different (12 volt square wave with a 20% duty cycle) from what the rallye tach is designed to read for RPM when using the MOPAR orange box.

#2= If you want an MSD pro billet distributor with a vacuum advance, you will need to get the RTR model:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/msd-8387/media/instructions
This distributor does not require the MSD 6AL to work, it has an internal ignition amplifier inside the distributor. A MSD 6AL can be connected to it if you want.
       If you want to use the MSD Pro Billet distributor without the vacuum advance, you will need this one:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/msd-8546/overview/make/dodge
This distributor will require an amplifier ie  MSD 6AL to work; no internal amplifier, just a magnetic trigger only, just like the MOPAR distributor.

The main advantage for using a MSD distributor is the ease of adjusting the advance curve and timing advance for modified engines IMO. The MOPAR distributor can connect to the MSD 6AL as well to take advantage of the multiple spark discharge. I would use a matching MSD ignition coil to avoid any issues.
1973 Challenger 440 6 pack auto 3.91 rear
2012 Dodge Ram 3500 dually 6.7 Cummins Fleece EFI Live
1973 Challenger 318 2bbl auto 2.73 rear 22.5 mpg RIP
1970 Challenger TA 340 4bbl auto-Sold and sad
1999 Dodge Ram 3500 dually 5.9 Cummins Fleece tuned VGT-sold
1995 Kawasaki ZX1100E & still alive




Offline 351c4v71

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 229
Re: which distributor for 440-6 with MSD 6AL
« Reply #16 on: April 18, 2017 - 08:13:22 AM »
Thanks!

Offline HP_Cuda

  • Hit the skinny little pedal on the right!
  • Sr. Resident
  • ******
  • Posts: 5268
  • Mopar or No Car!
Re: which distributor for 440-6 with MSD 6AL
« Reply #17 on: April 19, 2017 - 11:45:32 AM »

Yep that would qualify as old.

 :bigsmile:
1970 Cuda Clone 440 4 speed - sublime green
1970 Cuda 383 4 speed - yellow - SOLD


Offline dodj

  • Sr. Resident
  • ******
  • Posts: 6159
Re: which distributor for 440-6 with MSD 6AL
« Reply #18 on: April 19, 2017 - 09:29:07 PM »

So you run the MAS 6AL box , correct? with a mopar dist? Does your original tach work and did you need a special convertor box for it?
I'd like to start with such a set-up before dishing out the dough for a pro billet.
Thanks
I use an MSD 8290 converter. The original tach in your car will not work with the MSD tach output.
Scott
1973 Challenger  440 4 spd 
2007.5 3500 6.7 Cummins Diesel, Anarchy tuned.
Good friends don't let friends do stupid things. ........alone.

Offline 351c4v71

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 229
Re: which distributor for 440-6 with MSD 6AL
« Reply #19 on: April 21, 2017 - 02:42:01 PM »
Tanks DODJ!

Offline HRR688

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 6
Re: which distributor for 440-6 with MSD 6AL
« Reply #20 on: June 03, 2017 - 04:02:02 PM »
所有MSD产品现在在中国或墨西哥制造

Translation: All MSD Products are now made in China or Mexico

MSD, Accel, Mallory, Holley, Quick-Fuel, Barry Grant Demon and about 50 others are all owned by the same group and to my knowledge
they are sending everything they can to China or Mexico for manufacturing... is this the quality you want for your American Muscle car?

Facts:
Vacuum or Non-Vacuum distributor choice is determined by the engine not your personal preference, any motor that will make 10" of vacuum at Idle with 30* of timing
will greatly benefit from a vacuum style distributor properly set up to run on CONSTANT Manifold Vacuum. 

Inductive Ignition systems (ECU) will operate almost any engine efficiently up to 7000 RPM, after that you need a CD (Capacitor Discharge) Ignition system like
the Daytona Sensors CD-1 (3 Rev Limiters) or the CD-Pro (2 Rev Limiters) MADE IN THE USA Ignition boxes.

Coils are designed for either CD type or Inductive Ignition systems and best results will not be obtained from mismatching them, influenced by misleading advertising.

Any ignition system will only generate enough voltage to jump the spark by way of the path of least resistance,
adding a 80,000 Volt coil to a system that will find a ground and jump to it at 20,000V will not improve the flame source
within the combustion chamber.

Optimum results will not be obtained by just adding a quality ECU or modifying the distributor curve everything must be matched
and set up to give your engine the correct timing events based on engine specs and chassis options.
 
Carefully curving your distributor and then connecting it to an ECU that can't maintain timing (70's style Transistor type ECU's)
or output as load increases and resistance within the combustion chamber increases
will deliver mediocre results at best.

Using an Ignition product designed for a race application on the street will usually result in unreliability and a ride on a tow truck.

If your going to Drive your Mopar then don't use products that can not be easily replaced at a local parts store Reliability, Serviceability and a
properly matched Ignition is a must.

Keep your American Muscle Car American whenever possible beware of absurd claims of HP Increases by ignition company's, no engine will make more
HP just by adding a good Ignition System they can only unleash the power potential of the combination.  Make your decision on what ignition to run on facts not opinions, deal with someone who can advise you properly on what your timing events should be and have the equipment, components and knowledge to set it up properly or assist you to do it yourself.

Most Rich Idle, Stumbles, top end power loss, low MPH at the track, poor 60' times and poor fuel economy can almost always be traced back to an inadequate,
poorly matched or incorrect set-up of the ignition system as a whole..... Don't always point your finger at the carburetor it's usually not the issue.

Today's fuel is formulated to run in 2010 or newer lean burn, computer controlled, multi valve, flex fuel, injected, high combustion chamber temp engines and not your classics old school
Muscle Car, we can't change the fuel but we can change the tune-up to burn it more efficiently.

Always Always Always... Ignition First then Carburetion