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last summer I started to hear so noise followed by a bang or two coming from the back of my car. I found the two upper bars were pulling out and tearing the sheet metal where they connect to the metal behind the rear seat. The kit I have is the one they still sell with the reinforcement brace on the inside of the car. Iím sure the /race save me from catastrophic failure. At. The same time the brace was pulled hard enough to leave its impression on the sheet metal as well.  Iíve been busy and only now starting to tear her back down. I bought the Reilly street lynx but that is going to take more wore than usual due to all the holes in the frame rails from the ride tech kit. Iíve got pictures but having a time figuring out how to post them up. If anyone is curious Iím running a 6.1 hemi 6 speed trans, 3:73 rear gear with 335/30/18 tire. Posting this as a heads up to those with the ridetech to maybe reinforce what you have or be be gentle haha
I am getting close to putting my windshield and back window in as well. When I did my Challenger I was told to use a window channel primer (its black, comes in a can and has a brush); perhaps called urethane primer, I have some out in the shop waiting for me to use it. I believe it provides a better bound to the metal.  The butyl tape goes on top of the primer, then the window on that. As for tips, I'd recommend putting the window in dry first and centering it up. Are you going to use the factory bottom wedges? if not then you need something to hold the window up (as in between the bottom and the top of the channel. When you test fit it you can determine the distance side to side, then you can perhaps make some small temp spacers to tape on the sides; with the bottom spacers and the side spacers you will get the window exactly where you want it. One other thing, you might want to find something that you can lay on the window to apply a little pressure overnight so that it sits right and sticks; that said when I did my challenger the glass guy that helped me merely pushed around the edges with his hand a few times and called it good but told me that he usually recommends putting something on them to apply even pressure so they seal. I've only had the Challenger in the rain once or twice and never noticed any leaks so I guess it worked.

Oh one other thing, I believe the butyl tape should start and end on the bottom in the center
Small Blocks / Re: 273 Engine swap
« Last post by 70chall440 on Today at 01:07:07 am »
Very welcome. If it were me, I would drop the slant six with the K frame and trans, then put a V8 K member in and drop in a newer magnum as they are plentiful and already have a roller cam. I'd run EFI on it and enjoy the car.
Interior and Gauges / Re: Best interior panels for a Cuda
« Last post by 70chall440 on Today at 12:58:04 am »
Thanks, thats helpful. I need to see if they have a discount (I believe they do for members).
Small Blocks / Re: 273 Engine swap
« Last post by money pit on May 22, 2018 - 11:19:12 pm »
Good advice.  Thanks
That's kind of why I was a little nervous sharing my project with the world. There will be a lot of things that are not done "correctly", but I've known from the beginning that this is not going to be a true restoration. I've had this car for 28 years, and it was a sagging, worn out rust bucket when I bought it. The end result I am going for is simply to make it look as good as I can, and be able to drive it. Don't plan on ever selling it. It will eventually be my son's problem  :roflsmiley:

We did make some progress recently, and I have a couple of questions for anyone who wants to chime in. First, the panel that attaches to the rear of the frame rails (behind the bumper). Why does it NOT have any holes in the middle to attach the rear valence panel bracket? Also, it DOES have four small threaded holes in a rectangular pattern close to the middle. What are those for?

Also, on a different issue. I purchased a pneumatic crimping tool that I thought was what I needed to prep the old metal for the new quarter skins. I ran it across the top, but it seems like it barely crimps the original metal. And the crimp is only a half inch wide. I'm afraid that such a small crimp will make it too difficult to fit and weld the new panel. How do you guys do this?

I'll try to attach a couple pictures of both the tail panel holes, and the wimpy crimping tool. One positive: We test fitted the deck lid, and it fit great! Happy day. 
Interior and Gauges / Re: Best interior panels for a Cuda
« Last post by redo1973 on May 22, 2018 - 10:41:03 pm »
I bought the quarter panels and doors through Roseville Moparts (Michigan).  Sorry but I can't remember the manufacturer but they claimed these to be high quality (I trust them). A couple comments, the quarter panels fit nicely and the holes lined up.  There is a center hole that seem a little large so I had to finesse a screw/washer to tighten it without pulling through.  I had bought the panel with  felt and the chrome piece has some burrs.  I filed it down and put painters tape on the metal trim and then duct tape while I dry fitted.

I'll be working with the door panels this weekend. The black color shade looked decent but I can get you pictures if you wish.
Engine & Go Fast Goodies / Re: 340 Six Pack in 1962 Bristol 408
« Last post by Chryco Psycho on May 22, 2018 - 09:57:26 pm »
I would leave it alone or at least put Hemi heads on the poly  :2cents:
Well, a little behind in schedule but if things go well I'll put the windshield and rear glass in this weekend and finish door panels.  It's been a long time since I did this last.  I bought the 3/8 butyl rubber.  If I recall correctly I only need to prep the surface with a cleaner (I'm thinking of mineral spirits?) and then place the rope-like product on the edge of the metal.  I've not yet researched but do I need to warm this product at all?  I'm thinking that this is a "one and done" situation so any tips or tricks are welcomed here please.

Secondly,  I have most of the studs in place for the molding clips.  I have to replace a few with screw-in style due to new panels so I may have to masssge those into place.
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