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Welded mine on with the car on the twirler, no issues in fitment or alignment. Just think, people install full quarters with the car up as well.
Still finalising my plan of attack, but that not stopping me from starting.

Removed seats , better check inside cover, glad the inspectors at the port didn't see this mouse nest. His buddy was living in the other front seat back.

Returning the car to a 4-speed, previous owner liked an auto so put auto replacement floor in.  I need help to know where to weld in the 4-speed hump. Any measurements be gratefully appreciated. Took some cutting and grinding to remove auto and console brackets. Got couple of nicks to weld up.

Have stripped both door skins of the light surface rust and spray can paint I applied over the rust to hide it from port inspectors. Used strip wheel . Will use a metal conditioner next then epoxy primer.

Climbed into the trunk and remover the light rust that formed as a result of driving through the Kanas rain storm 2 months ago.

Pulled dash frame apart and was pleased when I trial fitted the Ralley gauge and it fitted perfect, screw holes matched up too. Thought there was couple of brackets you had to fit to the frame before Ralley gauges would fit.

Passenger rear frame rail bit thin on inside and outside had a hole. Cut away damage ,and have made patches . I can weld , just never owned a welder. Got one in weekend, so once it set up and I have couple of practices, I will attempt the repair.

Car has an etch primer on it, I intend to remove this and epoxy prime. Body was previously media blaster and is in excellent condition under the etch. Messy job , but I enjoy the challenge.

You have a good plan/instincts. As for the 4 speed, I assume you are just going to install the hump instead of the floor pan; either way they both are pretty self explanatory as to placement once you have them. Once you lay the hump on the floor you will exactly where it goes.
Oh I am sure.. I am not looking forward to all of the gremlins waiting for me on my car. The engine was built like 5 or 6 years ago (never fired) and I have been working on this car for over 10. Dumping a modern 5.7 in the car will remain an option depending on what happens. I went with efi and roller cam for the reliability, hopefully that works out. All that said, I have no doubts something will be leaking.
Ebod Pics / Re: Flickr Photo Of The Day!
« Last post by 70chall440 on Today at 03:58:07 pm »
Nothing is too far gone these days, just need a high credit limit and AMDs phone number...
Awesome build and car, makes me somewhat reconsider my choice of the stroked 340.. ah I am over it ... lol if I don't like it I can always rip it out and put a 5.7 in it  :bigsmile:

Thanks! The new engine along with the EFI sure is nice though. The best part is it doesn’t leak a drop!

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The Classics / Re: What are you doing with your ebody this weekend?
« Last post by 70chall440 on Today at 03:54:41 pm »
Nice work.

As for both of my Ebodies, I have walked past them several times...  :bigsmile:
Transmission and Drivetrain / Re: New Passon A-855 5 sp overdrive
« Last post by 70chall440 on Today at 03:52:37 pm »
definitely sounds a case of the "best of plans gone wrong" as Passion figured out it was much more expensive to build then they thought. You'd think with all the interest in the product they could have amortized the R&D across the sales keeping the price lower but perhaps it just costs a crap ton to make thus the high price. Unfortunately I think the high price will be a bit of a non starter for many especially with all of the Tremecs out there and so many conversions already done. I don't think I would spend $5500 on one.
Awesome build and car, makes me somewhat reconsider my choice of the stroked 340.. ah I am over it ... lol if I don't like it I can always rip it out and put a 5.7 in it  :bigsmile:
I welded mine while it was a shell on a rotissorie

Put car sideways and tacked both in place.  Flipped it the other direction still sideways and continued.  Vert with bracing across the doors before putting on rotissorie.  Thinking being that the car being sideways on the rotissorie was the strong axis for bending thus least chance of welding in and locking in curvature.

Door gaps did not change.

I thought the grinding to fit was quite reasonable and part of the process, nothing that good tunes and a few beers couldn't cure on a nice day.  I put bolts thru the floor pan and into the connectors to draw all tight before welding.

Project DOA in my garage :(
:iagree: I did the same thing and no change in body gaps was made. John from USCartool said it makes no difference either.
Electrical / AGM battery charger/maintainers
« Last post by 70chall440 on Today at 03:43:21 pm »
I apologize for the lengthy post in advance, but I thought I would throw this out there as I have heard/read many talk about this subject.

I have about 9 vehicles most of which are maintainers most of the time. I currently own several Battery Tender's, 3 Battery Saver (R2 Battery Saver), 1 Ctek 3300, 3 or 4 Harbor freight trickle chargers, 2+ Schumacher chargers, etc. I also use a lot of Optima batteries (red and yellow top) as well as several lead acid batteries and a Die Hard Platinum.

I went to SEMA last year and ran into the guy from R2 Battery Saver who regaled me with an explanation of how high speed his devices were/are and how they extend the life of a battery (especially a AGM) far longer than anything else out there. I was impressed as it seemed well thought out and executed, therefore I bought 3 of them even though at the time I already had several battery tenders, the Ctek and the HF tenders.

I had a relatively new yellow top go dead in one of the vehicles due to non use and a lack of a maintainer so I thought this would be a good test for the Battery Saver as it supposedly would bring back a dead AGM battery. Well, in that case it did not despite leaving it connected for over a week. I ended up putting a new Schumacher charger with AGM mode on it only to have it get super hot and actually vent off (as in steam coming out it). Needless to say, that battery was toast; I cant blame any device for not helping that one. 

I recently (last week) left the key on in my 52 rat rod Dodge PU which drained the 10+ year old red top. I thought this would be a good test for the Battery Saver so I connected it. After 2 days it would say it was 100% but only showed 6 volts. I then removed it and attached the Schumacher AGM charger, it got to 7.8 volts and said it was 100%. So naturally I thought, "this battery is done". I watched a You Tube video from Optima about bringing a dead Optima back in which they used a Ctek charger; since I own one I thought lets give that a try. I connected it and within 3 hours I was at 9.8 volts, 5 hours 11.7 and within about 18 hours 13.4 volts showing a full battery.

The morale of this story (for me) is that Ctek is a great product for AGM batteries and I will be buying more. I cannot bad mouth the battery tenders (brand) as they keep my Harleys topped off as well as my Viper. As for the HF tenders, I think they do work to some degree on a good battery but I do not think they will help a run down battery, for sure not in a timely fashion. As for the R2 Battery Savers, they at are probably ok as maintainers but nothing beyond that. Bear in mind that the Ctek and the Battery saver at both entry level models, so it isn't as if the Ctek was higher level in terms of capability. Yes the Ctek is probably $20-$30 more money (for the base models) but as far as I am concerned far better.

Next one I buy will be a higher end model with desulphation mode (recondition) as I have come to believe that is something I need.

I am sure there are many opinions here about this subject probably beginning with the battery first (many do not like Optima's), however I have been using them for the last 20+ years and find they do well for my applications. Hope this is helpful to someone and since Xmas is almost upon us, a Ctek charger might be a good gift (to you  :bigsmile:)

Just a last note; I don't work for Ctek nor am I in anyway affiliated with them, I just own a pile of cars that need batteries maintained and charged from time to time.  :thumbsup:
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